Barb’s Fabric Blog

A foray into fabric with the owner of Sawyer Brook Distinctive Fabrics

Addict or Connoisseur?

Do you consider yourself a fabri-holic?  I’ve been thinking a lot about that term recently.  I believe this is a distorted description of someone who values the materials that are used to create.

Many years ago when I first bought SBDF, a new acquaintance in the fabric business told me that it didn’t matter what I offered, it was finding the right customers.  “They’re all addicts; they’ll buy anything!” he said.  I was horrified by his statement as this did not at all characterize the customers in our base and I surely did not want to develop a business which simply fed an addiction.  Perhaps there are those in our industry who fit this description, but they are not generally customers of SBDF.

The other day I chatted with some local customers in the warehouse, a young design student and her artist mother.  As I often do, I asked “what are you looking for when you design your garments?”  The answer was the same that it has been for the 20+ years I’ve been buying for this business….something unique in fiber, color, and surface design.  These are not the words of those who are just “feeding a habit”.  These are the words of someone who values a fine piece of fabric and yes, maybe covets it, but doesn’t settle for “just anything”.

Silk Photo Print Fabric

This silk photo print is one of my current favs

The connoisseur looks for the finest fabrics in their category of interest, the best quality, the stand-out print for their taste, the right color values for their wardrobe or client.  Do we collect fabric?…why yes, of course.  By the very nature of the industry, fabric is produced, used and discarded, never to be milled again.  Thus we, as connoisseurs, must decide rather quickly that a particular fabric belongs in our treasure trove.  My favorite term for a fabric stash is “resource center”.  It is a collection of fabrics that we have gathered that have the potential to “become” when we are ready to create.  I am not at all ashamed to be a collector myself and I think there is nothing more fun than going through my treasures periodically to visualize future projects.  But, I do take offense when someone refers to me as a fabri-holic.  Now a choco-holic is a different thing—I wear that label and probably always will!

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Good Friends and Bucket Lists

I consider myself so fortunate because my days are filled with interactions with people in the creative arts. This includes our staff, each of whom is rich with stories and experiences to share.  Janee recently returned from this year’s ASDP convention.  She shared many stories of her experiences and brought paraphernalia for all of us to peruse.  On the table (our habit is to leave books, articles, etc of general interest on our lunch table) I found the catalog of Théâtre de la Mode.  I was immediately transfixed.  Janee told us about her choice to visit Maryhill Museum where the fashion dolls collection is now housed.  “Could I please borrow the catalog to read?” Generously Janee gave up the catalog to me, knowing it would be a bit before she would see it again.  Now a catalog doesn’t sound that exciting to read, but I ate up everything I could in this beautifully done revised second edition and along the way learned  the history of the haute couture fashion dolls.

Simultaneously on the West Coast a close friend was about to begin a class with Pati Palmer , one she’d had on her list for a long time.  I mentioned the museum collection and Pati’s connection with it. (*This edition of the catalog was published by Palmer-Pletsch.)  Much to my surprise and pleasure, Lois sent photos back to me of the Tonner replicas of the original fashion dolls. Thank you Pati for allowing us to use the photos from your collection.  What a circle of friends!

 

fashion dolls

Replicas from the Tonner Dolls collection

 

 


I tell myself I must save this diary to be reopened again at a later date when it will bear witness that in February 1941, between standing in line for milk, rutabagas, and mayonnaise with no oil or eggs, Candlemas with no crepes, and shoes with no leather, Paris brought forth its most characteristic feats, producing a figured velvet dress…a very dressy pink lame blouse…” (Colette, Paris de ma fenêtre).  That was how Colette described the Paris of 1941, where life was made up of daily hardship, of nostalgia for a suddenly vanished age, and the odd miracle of creativity.  Nadine Gasc, Théâtre de la Mode catalog, pg. 75.

 

To give a quick summary of the story of Théâtre de la Mode does not do justice to the telling of the “odd miracle of creativity” which is so eloquently written by Nadine Gasc.  To whet your appetite for the book and for a visit to the display I will give you the basics of the story. The original displays were contrived and produced in mid-1940’s Paris.  The plan was to demonstrate to the people of Paris and to the world that haute couture still lived even in the dark days of that post war era. Spirits were low and supplies were scarce, but the couture community came together and created a magnificent collection that announced to the world that the fashion industry and the artistry of Paris couturiers were not dead.

theatre de la mode

From the virtual gallery at maryhillmuseum.org

 

The original mannequins were formed in wire and fitted with porcelain heads. The outfits replicated the current season of the prominent couture houses.  The sets, themselves miniature works of art, were designed and built by well-known artists.  Real hair was used on the mannequins along with real leather for shoes (can you imagine making those tiny shoes?) and jewelry using real gemstones.  The proceeds from the showings were donated to war charities.  After a successful opening in Paris, the collection travelled to major cities around the world.  It ended up being stored in the basement of the City of Paris department store (Neiman Marcus today)  in San Francisco. By good fortune, one of the directors of the Maryhill Museum in Goldendale, Washington was able to obtain the collection and it was brought from the basement to the public once again.  In 1990, the collection was loaned back to Paris for re-furbishing and a re-introduction to the European public. The collection again toured major world cities and now resides back at Maryhill Museum of Art where it is shown a portion at a time.  A trip to this museum is definitely on my bucket list!!

Has anyone else seen it, or like me, read the catalog without the benefit of the visit?  Share your experience with us.

 


* Here is the publishers release which Pati shared with us…a full description of what you will find in this wonderful catalog.

 

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Cordially Yours

Corduroy Fabric

 

Some historians tell us that Corde-du-roi was the name given to this cotton pile fabric in the 17th century.  Worn by servants in the French royal houses, this durable fabrication gained popularity with the townspeople and spread to the extended trading areas. Others insist the origin was England where it was manufactured. There it became known as Manchester.  It is still common today to refer to corduroy trousers as Manchesters. Whatever the origin, this wonderful fabrication is still with us and offers many possibilities for fashion and practicability.  Corduroy is milled using extra filling yarns which are then cut and brushed to form the piles or wales.  Similar to velveteen in the process, corduroy is woven with linear binding points as opposed to the random points in a velvet.  Ribs of varying depth are created depending on the density of the filling yarns.  The most common classifications are:

Fine Cord  22-30 wales per inch (aka mini-wale)  Shirt or dress weight.

fine pincord fabric

Chocokiss

Pincord:  18-21 wales per inch. Shirt or dress weight or children’s garments.

corduroy

Pincord

We were thrilled to find this fine pincord this season. The fiber is unusual also in that it is rayon and cotton blend rather than all cotton.  The sheen produced gives this a dressier feel than most corduroy fabrics.

Needlecord:  15-18 wales per inch.  Slightly finer than classic cord, this also works well for shirts or pants.

Mid-wale corduroy fabric

Brassy Orange Cord

We have several colors currently in stock of this classic cord.  To view, check in our Denims, Cords and Twills collection.

Classic Cord:   10-14 wales per inch.  (aka Manchester or mid-wale) works well for pants, skirts, jackets or jumpers.

Classic Corduroy

Black Cord

Jumbo Cord:  3-10 wales per inch.  (aka Constitutional or wide wale) Best for jackets or outerwear.  Softer versions can be used nicely for casual pants.

Wide Wale Corduroy

Double Fun

This wide wale cord is double the fun because it is double sided with a slightly smaller wale count on the reverse.  Great for subtle trim or roll back collar and cuff.

Sewing Tips:  Use a one way layout always!  Pile fabrics are brushed in one direction and will show a marked contrast in the way the light hits the wales.  Pre-wash to adjust for shrinkage. Consider using a walking foot to keep the layers even.  Otherwise, this durable cotton is easy to work with, easy to launder and comfortable to wear!

 

 

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Congratulations

National Sewing Month

We have a winner!

Thank you to all who participated in this drawing in honor of National Sewing Month.  Your entries were fascinating to read.  I found each one inspiring, humorous, and many familiar.  I will fess up that I have been out of the office the past few weeks due to a family urgency.  Checking in on my blog comments was a light part of the day. Thank you all for sharing so much of your personal sewing journey.

The winner of the $50 gift certificate is Sandra Gerritz–congratulations!

As a thank you to all of you who participated, we will be sending you an email with a code to use for FREE shipping on your next order.  We really enjoyed your participation and look forward to doing this again sometime.

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The First Print?

Paisley Fabric

One of the most well-loved decorative designs is the paisley. Named for a village in Scotland (more on that later), the paisley claims roots in many cultures:  India, China, Middle East and Europe.  One legend I read reported the paisley shape as the oldest print design because it resembles a clenched fist pinkie side down.  Others describe the basic shape as a pinecone, a date palm, a cashew or a teardrop. Whatever the “true” derivation, this traditional shape has been present in prints for several centuries.  The Kashmiri shawl was woven meticulously by hand from cashmere yarns.  First the shawls were plain, often natural white, with colorful borders using the designs that evolved into the paisley patterns we know today.  Then as fashion dictated, the design became all over. Each shawl could take up to five years to complete.  Once this luxurious handwork reached Europe, there was a huge demand for a more affordable version.  Industries sprang up weaving similar designs using a blend of wool and silk.  Paisley, Scotland became the hub of the production and thus the name became associated with the design.

In the late 19th century the shawl became obsolete on the fashion scene in part due to the introduction of the bustle in European women’s fashion making a full length shawl unwearable, and also due to a famine in Kashmir which wiped out their shawl industry. The design returned with vigor in the 1960’s.  By then designers were using it in prints and in textures. As fashion trends look back to the sixties and seventies for inspiration, we’ve seen a resurgence of this classic pattern. To wear the paisley trend today, you have many choices.  Find the interpretation that works best for you and wear the trend.

 

 

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For the Love of Sewing

When all is said and done, we sew for the love of it!  The Sewing and Craft  Association has chosen this theme for National Sewing Month 2011.  Sewing offers comfort to us and to those around us. The gentle rhythm of a needle in hand carefully placing stitches where they belong, the hum of a machine under our direction, the stimulating reverie as we envision the next garment, the thoughtful process as we engineer the construction, the memories that stir our hearts as we create on the shoulders of those who taught us.

Scientists have told us there is a definite connection to stress reduction, but don’t we know that? When my children were young, I set aside a time to sew just for me. It was Sunday afternoon.  Just a few hours, but I cherished those times alone as I re-grouped and let my creative juices flow uninterrupted.  Once they were in school I found time to participate in a sewing group that met once a week with a marvelous leader who inspired all of us to greater heights.  Many of us are still in touch today.  Now my sewing room beckons less often since my focus is here at SBDF, but I still spend time there and it is always restorative for me. I will definitely have needle in hand this weekend…I hope you do too.

Join us as we celebrate our love of sewing throughout the month.  Share your stories here and we’ll post them in the next newsletter.  (first names only)  A few sentences or an essay– every comment will be entered in a drawing for a $50.00 gift certificate…drawing on October 1st.  I’m so eager to hear your thoughts.

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Long Live Texture

It’s that wonderful time of year when texture becomes king and all the fairies in fabric land rejoice!!  OK, a little silly, but seriously fall and winter fabrications offer some of the most exciting textures for our creations.  Colleen recently said that if it’s one thing she’s learned at SBDF over the years, it’s the importance of texture, particularly in using neutral and classic colors.  Why do we love texture so much?  It adds depth and dimension to solid colors, inviting the eye to explore more carefully the particular garment in question.  Light dances off texture in different ways than off a flat fabric, deflecting that dreaded sheen.  (Of course, there is a time and place for an appropriate amount of sheen—we’re not opposed to that look!)  Texture hides design lines which tends to make it easier to use for novice sewists or quick unstructured garments. Think cardigan jacket as opposed to fully tailored blazer. Textural fabrics are fun to work with…explore the possibilities

Texture can be dramatic

 

Wool Brocade

Atlantis

Or subtle

Wool Viscose Ribbon Texture

Uffizi

Combining textures can be fun!! Choose a chic look with a defined texture for a jacket and a smoother texture for pants or skirt.

Reversible Matalasse

Diamond Point with flat textural bottom weight

or choose the same texture in different colorways

Wool Brocade

Olympia in Garnet and Bronze

or choose two textural fabrics to be combined for exquisite art to wear jackets.

Mohair and Texture

Coming Soon from The Manhattan Collection

 

Mohair and Texture

Coming Soon from The Manhattan Collection

 

Herringbone and Dot

Coming Soon from The Manhattan Collection

Multi-colored textures can be combined with prints for a unique go-together look.

Large yarn Texture with Print

Coming Soon from The Manhattan Collection

We search the markets for the best in textural offerings all year long…we hope you enjoy what we find.  Watch for The Manhattan Collection coming soon which features fabulous textures from a custom coat designer!

 

 

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To Muslin or Not to Muslin

Burdastyle raised this question this week with a how-to article.  I was surprised at the reaction of some of the commenters on the blog. I am always interested in what my readers have to say.
Do you muslin?  
Muslin Fabric

Our current muslin of choice

I don’t recall ever being taught the concept of a toile in my early sewing days, although I know my Mom would often make a wearing muslin for me or my sisters before using the final fashion fabric. Once I got serious about perfecting (oh, still so far from that goal!!) my sewing skills, I learned the importance of a muslin.  I have tried a number of techniques:
Using unbleached muslin of various weights and finishes. This is my go-to method.  The fabric is inexpensive, easy to stitch, easy to write on, soft enough to allow for a sense of  draping.
Using gingham check to take advantage of the grid—I only did this a couple times and have left this method behind in favor of others. It may be successful for some people, but I got too caught up in the check.
Using a similar fabrication to the final fashion fabric.  I use this when the fashion fabric I have chosen has a drastically different weight or drape than a muslin fabric that will impact the final fit in a significant way.  I would use this method for knits as they are so unpredictable, but trying to get one knit to act like another is a challenge all its own…see Alma’s Knit Knacks Sew Along for more discussion of knit muslins.
Using a similar fabric to my final fashion fabric and finishing the garment (a wearing muslin).  I hardly ever do this, but I have friends who use this method religiously.
Once I learned the benefits of making a muslin, I rarely make a new garment without a test first.
I have always used the muslin concept to make parts of a garment that I want to perfect. For instance,  if I know the shoulder or bust or midriff is going to present a fit problem for me, I muslin just that part of the garment.  I have made many half bodices just to work out a design detail that may impact the fit. My body is relatively symmetric so the half bodice works.  If you vary a great deal from one side of your body to the other, this would not work.  I also make practice pockets, buttonholes, hems, whatever I think needs some tweaking…what are scraps for anyway??
Another benefit of a muslin is the reuseability factor.  If you love your finished garment and hope to make the same pattern again in the future, pack that muslin with the pattern and you can make fit adjustments again on the same muslin to accommodate body changes (none of us experience those do we??)
All in all I  believe muslins are well worth the time.  I do think there is a danger of using all your precious sewing time as practice time.  So don’t fall into the trap of never completing a garment because its not perfect!  There’s a happy meeting point there for everyone’s sensibilities.
Please share your ideas…
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Ikat-A Fine Art

Cotton Ikat

Fruit Flambe-cotton ikat from Bali shown with Demilune button

Ikats are fabrics that are formed using yarns that are tied, resist-dyed and then woven to create patterns from the resulting multi-colored yarns.  Ikat is a Malaysian word meaning “to bind”.  The first step is to wrap or bind  the yarns with pieces of plastic-modern-or fabric-traditional- in a planned pattern. This wrapping prevents sections of yarn fom coming into contact with the dye. Once dried, the yarns are then woven by hand to create the design.   This process can be applied to warp yarns, the filling yarns or both with varying results.  The weaver must be highly skilled to produce an end result that has both beauty and accuracy.  The feathering effect that is often seen in an ikat fabric is the result of the dyed yarns twisting or rolling as they are woven. Here is a closeup of the fabric we currently have in stock. 

Cotton Ikat

Fruit Flame-Close up view

Most people think of ikat weaving as associated with Indonesian culture.  There are indeed many cultures that embrace this handcraft and the results aer varied and wonderful.  For a view of a variety of archived ikat textiles check this blog from the Textile Arts Center.

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Measure Twice, Cut Once

We really care about the fabric we send you.  That either sounds like an insincere marketing line or it sounds a  bit corny, but the truth is everyone here at SBDF shares your love of fabrics. When your order is cut, our cutting room staff treats each cut as if she were in her own sewing room.  Measure twice…once looking for flaws, the second for accuracy.  Cut once. Each fabric has its own “best way” for cutting. Some we draw a thread on the cut line, others we cut along the plaid or design, others are measured on each selvage and cut with a T-Square. This standard stays in place even during our busiest times. We really value the product we sell and we value its potential in the hands of our customer.
Just thought you should know…;-)
To read more about order fulfillment during the busy season,  Read This.

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