The Savvy Sewer Salon at Sawyer Brook

The weather is getting warmer by the day around here. It is that time of year again to start dreaming and sewing summer garments. I am going to kick off my summer sewing by making a dress. Dresses seem to be everywhere and there are so many pretty styles to choose from.

BrendaJo has graciously agreed to join me. I hope we will see more people join us as well. It is so much fun to see what everybody makes as we are such a diverse and talented group. And even if you decide to skip the new dress this season, please feel free to chat here. As always, I greatly value your comments.

I am going to try something different this time around. I have a lot of experience in altering commercial patterns: sometimes with good results, and sometimes not so good. I am still looking for better and more efficient ways to do it. Working with fabric is my favorite part of the process. I don’t mind spending less time altering patterns 

Two weeks ago DH gifted me 3 books: Kenneth King’s “Moulage” and “Basic Sleeve”, and Lynda Maynard’s “De-Mystifying Fit”. This time around I would like to make my pattern and use it to fit a commercial dress pattern. I will be working on this while deciding on a style and fabric of my dress.

Nata, I think it is fun and a very valuable learning experience to draft patterns. I taught myself to do it a while back. So good luck and have fun with it.
At the end of summer last year I decided to get rid of all summer clothing that I didn't like or was faded, stained or just plain drab looking. As a result I find that my wardrobe for summer is seriously depleted. I had a nice linen skirt that was so faded and worn I had to get rid of it even though I really liked it so before I tossed it I took it apart and made a pattern from it. I am working on a skirt from that pattern right now and think I can finish it tomorrow. Then I am going to make my striped shirt, that should go fast. Then I will be ready to join you in the Summer Dress Sew Along. I already have the dress cut out from a pattern that I have used before and I know it fits well so I can just sew it. The fabric is:
Brenda

I remember this fabric. It's a very vibrant color. It will look sharp.

Taking new set of measurements is the first step in making my pattern. Yesterday, I rushed home from work so DH can measure me. He had half an hour before he had to leave. He did pretty good (I hope) because he is very meticulous. We run out of time and I had to involve my kids (ages 9 and 4) to take last few measurements.

After kids were off to bed, I got out my drafting supplies and a cup of coffee I made the outline and all major horizontal lines: bust, hip, etc. Then I realized I need to start over.

I asked DH o use metric measurements because they are easier to use in calculations. On my metric tape numbers are printed between two longer marks. It almost looks like the number belongs to the half mark, when it actually belongs to the bottom mark. I told him however that it belongs to the center mark. It wasn’t a complete was out, but all the measurements he took were off by 0.5cm (which is about ¼ inch). I threw away my outline, and recalculated all the formulas. It was 11PM by then and I decided to call it a day.

Nate,

Thanks for referencing your new books, Moulage, Basic Sleeve, and De-Mystifying Fit. I just ordered those today as I would like to understand the sloper process.

Beth

Beth,
You are welcome. I would enjoy your company if you want to draft it with me. You can use it to fit the trench coat.

I had a better day yesterday. In one hour (from 10PM to 11 PM) I was able to make a draft for the back bodice, and half of the draft for the front. Considering I am at the very early part of the learning curve and was doing it tired, it doesn’t take long to draft the pattern. It’s encouraging news for those who would be interested to do it but has been putting it off for the lack of time.

PS: It sure looks different from commercial patterns I am used to. I hope it’s for the best and not because I am messing it up.

I worked on my draft for about 45 min late last night. That time was just enough to finish front draft and double check it. I am at the point where I need to cut it and sew moulage together.

It really does look a lot different. There are a couple of things that concern me by the looks of it. But I am getting ahead of myself. I need to trust it. I can’t wait to see what it’ll look like.

Back to dresses. I have been cyber-shopping and looking at the dresses. My head is spinning: there are so many choices. Floral prints are big this summer, but other than that anything goes You can find a dress to suit any body type, age, color … I love it. There are volumes of inspiration out there.

I also did a little of pattern browsing. Burda WOF May issue id a Dress Issue and there are a few pretty dresses there as usual : http://www.burdafashion.com/en/Magazines/Preview_burda_world_of_fashion_05_2009/Dresses_you%E2%80%99ll_adore/1270777-1640676-1702865-1702877.html

There is also what they call "Take 1, Make 4" http://www.burdafashion.com/en/Magazines/Preview_burda_world_of_fashion_05_2009/Take_1_make_4/1270777-1640676-1702865-1702883.html. If I understand it corrcetly they make 1 pattern into 4 different dresses. Now that's something I should be doing all along. How much faster my sewing will go if I work with the same pattern!

I also like Simplicity patterns and there are lots of dresses there: http://simplicity.com/index.cfm?page=thumbnail.cfm&cat=1&type=1&sec=1&browTypeId=&StartRow=1

Here are Vogues patterns though nothing jumped at me: http://www.voguepatterns.com/list/dresses_includes_designer/page-1

Nata, Here's a picture of the dress I have started. Click on it to get the full view. I think it will look great in the fabric I have chosen because it is soft and drapey and that is what is needed for the view I am doing. (D)
Last night I watched "What Not To Wear", I've only watched it one other time. There were only one or two outfits that I liked, flowers and prints just aren't me. I like classic garments in nice fabrics, hopefully I don't look too dowdy.
I have more time to sew than you do since I am retired and have an empty nest. I like to sew in two hour blocks and I do that about four days a week. Good luck with your moulage.
Brenda

I'm excited about this sew along because we have so many pretty "dress" fabrics in stock and coming into stock soon. I'm interested to hear what styles of dresses people are considering so I can point you to the appropriate fabric types. For drapey styles, any of our rayon batiks will work. For airy styles, we have a wonderful new print from Prada in silk chiffon--lime and bright blue. We just ordered a fabulous rayon/silk print in bright pinks and corals. It's gorgeous. I'll get pics up as soon as Colleen returns next week.
For more structured dresses, consider cotton/spandex prints or solids, linens or silks. Knits are perfect for comfort and style. We have several new ones about to hit the web store this week. If you don't see what you're looking for, post here or email me for suggestions. Also, I'll be more specfic when see what patterns you are choosing.

Brenda, are you making the long sleeve version?

Barb, putting together a dress swatch packet would be a tough task. There are so many possibilities. Do make sure to link pictures of the Prada and pink print fabric you mentioned above.

I cut out and sewed the moulage. All I can say is ‘WOW”. It is very close to perfect. I am convinced. There a couple minor tweaks I need to make, including a deeper bust dart, and sway back tuck. I hope to work on it tonight.

Yes, we agree that a dress packet is not feasible. Most of the fabrics are prints and show better in photo form. We will certainly honor any swatch requests from this group for specific fabrics. We'll work hard at geting the new ones up in the next few days...we're heading for warmer weather here which makes us all think of summer dresses!

I made adjustments to moulage last night and stitched together the second version. I am satisfied with the results and consider it good to go. I am going to add wearing ease and make it into a sloper tonight. I think it’s time to start planning what kind of dress I want to make first.

Barb, would you have time to make a dress with us? Think of all the “good publicity” for the company with recreational sewers if you as the owner sew a project using your fabric

PS: We are expecting 70F for Friday and the weekend. That's warm enought to wear a summer dress.

Hi All, I have just a little hand work to do on my shirt so I started on my dress a few days ago. I have the skirt
gores back and front sewn up and seams are finished (pinked b/c they are not going to ravel). The top is about 50% finished. Nata, I am making 3/4 length sleeves, I've got droopy upper arms and always want to hide them.
Lifting weights doesn't seem to help.
I've got quite a bit of fabric left over and I am going to make a dress for my three year old granddaughter, a Florence Eisemann (sp?) pattern. I love to sew for little girls.
Brenda

I posted earlier today and it evaporated into cyberspace! Have no idea what happened, but I will post again.
Nata, thanks for the invite to join in. Right now I'm focusing my efforts on getting SB fabrics online and available to everyone else! Yesterday Colleen took photos of several of our newest prints and got them up in the web store. These are great choices for summer dresses. Here are a few of them

Vanity
Saint-Tropez
Desiree

If you're looking for great prints at bargain prices, try browsing our sale section. For example, you'll find a very current print motif on Rose and Thorn and a great duo with a whimsical jungle print on Fancy Cats.