The Savvy Sewer Salon at Sawyer Brook

Hey Everyone...
One of our customers, Pam, has offered to do a jacket sew along with silk tweed. She's chosen Jalie pattern #2559. She'll post shortly and let you know why she chose it and what she plans to do in the sew along. We hope you'll all join in and have some fun sewing a new springtime jacket. I'll be posting fabric suggestions shortly. In the meantime, here's a bit about Pam's sewing background in her own words.

I started sewing as the child of a home sewer who had very strict ideas about how things were to be done. That is to say that I got a start doing things right. There were no dirndl skirts in my repertoire. I sewed my own clothes and those for a few friends for years, probably around 15 years until my daughter no longer wanted clothes made by me, but preferred the real retail thing. I moved on to quilting for quite a number of years and was featured in Quilting a Arts Magazine and showed in a number of national/international shows. A couple of years ago I realized I just wasn't getting enough satisfaction from quilting and decided to go back to garment sewing. As a grown up I was able to supply myself with wonderful things like a high quality dress form and fantastic sewing machine and with the wealth of information on the internet, any questions I ever had have been answered and I fearlessly cut into insanely expensive couture fabrics and will try any pattern, regardless of the degree of difficulty.

I was an advanced sewer when I stopped years ago. Now I have the additional advantage of techniques learned in quilting which I feel has enhanced my ability to construct and finish garments.

Please join us in welcoming Pam to the Salon!!

Welcome everybody. While you are all selecting a classic blazer pattern and fabric, I'll be tracing my Jalie pattern and locating all my tips on blazer construction. I hope to make this a fun experience for everyone. I will include some details that I always use (like bound buttonholes and pad stitching lapel interfacing), but will also give instruction for more standard finishes and, of course, will be here to answer any questions you have along the way. I will be ready to start the sew-along on February 1.

Have never joined in on a sew-along before but I'd love to jump onboard. I quilt and dabble in other artsy and crafty things, but my energy is now focused on sewing garments, artsy and otherwise. It's my goal in 2010 to create a wonderful, wearable wardrobe. Actually, I've recently been researching the style and history of Chanel jackets. When I think of the Chanel jacket versus a classic blazer, I envision two completely different styles. I do plan to attempt a Chanel-style jacket one day, with all the bells and whistles, but in the meantime I do believe a classic blazer would be a good challenge and a fine addition to my 2010 wardrobe in the making.

Thanks, Chris

Welcome Chris,

I have lots of info on Chanel techniques as well and even a piece of fabric from Chanel to use when I get the energy. Those elements are so unique to a soft, loose tweed that they don't translate to a classic blazer very well, although depending upon the weight of your fabric, the chain attached at hem can really enhance the way a jacket hangs.

In addition to all the details on a Chanel jacket, I have a details of Armani construction, which may be relevant, along with all of Claire Shaeffer and Kenneth King's fabulous advice. I'll include both dressmaker and couture options. I usually choose couture, but not always.

I'm glad you're joining in and if I'm ever unclear or you just need more information, please let me know. I want this to be fun.

Hi Pam,

I think I'll jump in too. I have a nice piece of SB fabric, Crushed Stone (I think) from a couple of years ago. It's a beautiful silk tweed and will be nice for spring. I like the look of your Jalie pattern and am considering buying it. I usually sew jackets from the Fashion Sewing Group patterns, but I might be interested in trying something new.

I've been a slower sewer lately, due to life changes, but I still love to sew! I'll decide on my pattern by next week.

Hi, Pam. I haven't ventured a jacket attempt in a while, so I think I might join in. (Maybe I should first finish the SB jacket laying over the back of my sewing chair that just needs a lining). Right now, I'm leaning toward the fabric "Dustin", but "Ancho" is my backup choice (still haven't made up my mind). I think Ancho is another color of your fabric. For a pattern, I'm leaning toward Marfy 1052, which I already have and haven't sewn yet. I may have to revise that plan if the fabric comes and seems to want to be a different style, though...


Dustin: http://store.sawyerbrook.com/Dustin_p_18-1638.html


Ancho: http://store.sawyerbrook.com/Ancho_p_18-1671.html

I think I will jump into thte SAL. I have been wanting to make a new Blazer and this is a great opportunity. I will have all my stuff by the middle of next week. Need to decide on a pattern. Possibly have one in my stash. Looking forward to the fun. Anne

I'd like to join too! Once upon a time I sewed everything I wore. Then along came kids, a job - life in general! I'm sorry to say I haven't stitched anything for myself in quite some time. I'm sure my story is not unique! My techniques are probably very rusty and my time might be limited but I would love to participate. I have never been part of a sew-along so what do I do next?
Candy

Hi, like several of you, I have not joined the sew alongs until now. I just ordered SO/9177 Imperial Tropical to make my jacket. I still need to choose a pattern from my stash and my even attempt using My Label for this jacket. I'm really looking forward to learning new techniques and implementing great details.

Denise

Hi All
Since several have mentioned they are new to sew alongs (SAL) I have re-posted our general SAL guidelines here. As with all our Salon topics, we respectfully request that you post only about SBDF fabrics so that we can be available to respond to any of the fabric questions.

We're excited about our new Sew Alongs forum. We'll aim for projects that last about 4-6 weeks, and our sew along leader will talk through the process as she creates her own garment. We'll start out with planning, move on to cutting and then to sewing. We invite everyone to participate by sharing their experiences, questions, and tips. We hope when we're finished there will be a number of pictures to post of completed garments!

We will announce new projects about two weeks before they start, letting you know what materials you'll need. We'll list the pattern chosen and suggest suitable fabrics from our current inventory. If you plan to use a fabric from your stash, we do require that it be a Sawyer Brook fabric so that we can best respond to your questions.

P.S. If you fall behind or get a late start, you can always catch up by reading back posts. You can join the discussion at any time even after the scheduled project time is past.

How to Participate
It's easy!! Introduce yourself by posting a reply to the project announcement. Tell us which SB fabric you'll be using and anything else you'd like us to know about your sewing experience, your equipment or your sewing personality!

As we progress you can refer to Some Sew Along How To Tips. Feel free to PM or email me with technical questions and I'll do my best to help.

Look for my virtual swatch set later this weekend!

Hi Everyone
I've set up a virtual swatch set for this sew along. These are just a few suggestions of fabrics we currently have in stock. I have to get some help on how to insert a link to the web store in the album...can't seem to find that feature in Picasa, but I'll keep looking. In the meantime, I'd suggest browsing in slide show mode to get the best view and then searching the web store by name of each fabric you're interested in. Actually a shorter way to do that is to go to our Suits and Jackets section of the web store and there you'll find most of these fabrics, plus more that might be of interest.

Here are other links that may be helpful.

Muslin for your test garment. Also available in bleached.

Best Match Service for Linings, Interfacings, Shoulder pads, Thread

Browse our buttons for your finishing touch.

If you need more info or would like a swatch, just contact me by PM or email.

Hi all,

I'm so glad that so many of you are joining in. I think since we're getting a tiny bit of a late start, I'll give everybody a few more days, say until Friday, to be decided on a pattern and ready to get started. To Carole, the reason I like Jalie patterns so much is that they look and fit just like RTW (think Banana Republic, J Crew, etc.). They are come in about a million sizes in each envelope, so you're sure to find a combination of sizes that will fit you right . . . and another nice thing about Jalie is that the ease allowed seems to be the right amount, so that if you choose a size based on your actual measurements, it will fit the way you would expect a RTW garment to fit. I don't know about all of you, but when I pick a pattern size it's a total crap-shoot. The envelope measurements mean nothing and they aren't necessarily too small. In fact, a lot of times when I sew a Vogue Designer, they are sizes too big (this year's Badgley Mischka patterns, for instance).

To Jenny, I also have a piece of Ancho at home and it's gorgeous. The colors are so subtle and there is a printed cotton in the same collection I bought to make a skirt to go with the Ancho tweed (for another jacket). I love Marfy patterns too and I think that jacket would be beautiful in either tweed. The Ancho and Mint Flakes have such a beautiful texture and I just know they will make up beautifully. They have just the right combination of drape and structure.

Anyway, everybody decide on your patterns and get your jackets cut out and I'll be making interfacing decisions and sharing early in the week.

Enjoy

Pam

Candy and Denise, I really didn't mean to overlook you. I'm tracing my Jalie pattern today (if you haven't used Jalie, they come on heavy paper so you have to trace onto pattern tissue). I'll jump back in later this week to talk about different interfacing methods. What I will most likely go with is my version of the "mostly Armani" technique. That means several different interfacings in different areas, mostly fusible. It makes for a fabulously structured and yet beautifully feminine jacket - nothing stiff I promise. I'm also not going to take off and run with this since I assume we all have lives that need tending to.

I'll be back on later this week - probably Wednesday, with some pictures of my progress as well as interfacing advice, both for the fully tailored method I will use and with a more dressmaker's approach for those who want a less structured jacket.

Welcome all.

Pam

Pam, the sew-along sounds like a lot of fun. What fabric did you choose?

Pam - Not to worry - I'm not feeling left out at all! I ordered my fabric this weekend - Ms. Charcoal. And, I am thinking I would like to use Vogue 8481 as my pattern. I've had the pattern for awhile but haven't had the opportunity (read nerve) to try it yet!