The Savvy Sewer Salon at Sawyer Brook

Hi Carole - Very impressive! You put your time to good use and got a lot done while you had daylight. Is your fabric still on the website? I was trying to take a peak but couldn't find it. If you know the number let me know. I save my swatches so I'm sure I could find it, to better imagine your project.

I've been contemplating a project this weekend too. Vogue 8539 is a loose fitting coat and I'm wondering if my chosen fabric will work for it. I don't recall the name but I bought it about a year ago - a tomato red double-cloth (solid color). Have you used double-cloth in the past? I think this pattern would work because it has only a few seams, and dropped sleeves. The front facing is cut-on so that will also reduce bulk.

I tested the fabric edges and it doesn't seem to pull apart like a double-faced fabric so I won't try doing the seams recommended for that fabric (pulling apart, stitching single layers). I'll sew my seams using the traditional method, and then plan to bind the seam allowances with a Hong Kong Finish using another fabric. I'm wondering what to do about the hem - I don't want too much bulk. And wondering about bound buttonholes... again the bulk might be a problem. I think this might work... if I make "windows" using silk organza as the facing fabric, and place the buttonhole lips behind the windows, and stitch them to the window seam allowances.

If you have other suggestions for working with this fabric I'd appreciate it.

Good luck with the remaining ice and I hope you get power restored soon!
Thanks
Lois

Hi Lois, I think the Carraroe number is 80217. That means it's not from fall '08, but January '08! So I'm writing about this under Fall '08 fabrics, with a winter '08 fabric. Oh well. The fabric is from the collection that had an English/Sherlock Holmes theme.

Today, while a blizzard started (!) I hand basted back and one front together. I've never sewn a plaid this small, and I knew that I had to baste the pieces together to keep them from shifting at the sewing machine. It's kind of a nice task actually - rather peaceful because the stitches don't have to be perfect. The fabric is so nice. I kept oohing and aahing over it as I was basting. I checked for buttons at SB the other day and I didn't find any - yet. I did pick up lining, though.

I haven't worked with double cloth before, but I have my eye on the one from the most recent collection, Glacier Double Cloth. I love the color. I read an article in Threads about double cloth a while back. I think the seam edge treatments would be kind of fun to experiment with.

I did make a super pattern this week from Jalie 2682. I used a green knit from my stash. It's a wonderful fit and look. So I picked up the Blackbelt Knit from the most recent collection to make another one. The first one only took me an hour and a half to whip up. I feel very modern in it. It's a little longer than other t-shirts so it covers up my torso nicely. I think it's hard to find long, good looking knit shirts and sweaters. I'm getting a little tired of these lower cut jeans. I'm glad that waistbands are rising, but I'd like to see them even higher.

We were without 'official' power last week for two and a half days. I really couldn't complain, though, because my house was warm and I was able to enjoy a hot shower. I did go through most of my candle collection though. There's some concern that this current storm will keep crews from getting to people who are still without power. I'm pretty sure that New England will have a white Christmas!

Hi Lois, I just looked at that Vogue pattern, it's cute! It looks like it is still available, even though its OOP. Would you be interested in doing a sew along together?

Hi Carole - Yes I'd love to do a Sew Along. Let me get some thoughts together. I think beginning after the NY might be a time when others could join in.

Does anyone have an interest in joining Carole and I in a Coat Sew Along? If so please post your ideas - or your apprehensions. We can help get you over the hurdle and answer questions. For those interested in an easy design check out the Vogue pattern I mentioned in my earlier post. The sleeves are easy because they are a dropped sleeve. And the front facing is cut-on and folded back. With those two features and the basic silhouette I think it's a great coat pattern to try. Keep it simple and add some pizazz with some terrific buttons.

And for those afraid of buttonholes, this pattern has the answer for that too. There is a one button view which utilizes a seam for the buttonhole - a slit in the seam becomes the buttonhole. Now what could be easier than that?

I'm looking forward to hearing from others wanting to join us. Carole's coat includes a lining - and my coat will be unlined but with some sort of seam finishing - yet to be determined

Just a few clarifications on the fabrics. Carroroe was marketed in Winter 2007:

71207 Carraroe The muted tones of Galway update this classic multi-colored hounds tooth wool. It cries out to be a traditional blazer, but put a contemporary twist on it by creating a double breasted short jacket or a soft shawl collar shaped jacket. 100% wool.

Barb - Yes it is Vine Ripe Double I'll be using for the coat. I've begun a new habit - to save your description when I buy fabric, which will come in handy in the future. But I don't have it for this piece - thanks for the information.

Lois

Hi Barb, thanks for the number/season clarification on the Carraroe. I did take a picture of the fabric on my cutting table and I'll try and post that soon. Lois, I looked at the only pictures of Vogue 8539 that I could find on the web. It looks like a loose fitting hooded jacket. But I couldn't see the slot seam buttonholes. I'm fishing around for a pattern for the Glacier Double Cloth. I saw a Tyrolean inspired jacket pattern somewhere and I'm thinking about that. I've wanted one for while. I think it would be nice to make something unlined and a little unusual for a change. I am thinking I could use the double cloth as a binding too. Then I could wear the jacket with a lovely soft brown top underneath. I think there are some nice buttons for the jacket at SB.

The pattern I'm interested in is the Alpine Jacket from Great Copy patterns. In fact, I think I'll order it today. As I was looking around on the web, I came across a German pattern company www.schnittquelle.de that is fun to look at. I'm not sure how or if they ship to the US, but it would be fun to try some of these!

Carole - If you do a search on the Vogue Pattern website for #8539 you should see several views for this coat. One is hooded, but view A (in deep purple) has the button inserted at the neckline where the collar is attached. I just checked the instructions and Vogue does provide directions a slotted buttonhole which will be helpful for those who haven't done one before.

What's Tyolean?

For my seam finish I am thinking of using bias strips of a deep chocolate silk from my stash. It has pinprick dots in almond. I think that would be a nice combination with the tomato red coating fabric.

Hi, I am not going to join the coat sew-a-long because I made a double-cloth coat last year. I am going to be following along with you though because I am interested in your creations. I made mine reversible using Butterick #4029, a very simple pattern, I used the version with a hood. I made it by separating the layers, seaming one layer on the machine and then, on the reverse side, I tucked the seam allowances under and sewed it by hand. Very, very time consuming especially since one side was a plaid that I had to match and even though it had a dropped shoulder, I had difficulty doing the shoulder and underarm seams. I did the front edges and the hem by separating the fabric and turning the seam allowances under and topstitching. On one side I used a button and loop closing, tucking the loops into the front edge before I topstitched. On the reverse, I used jumbo snaps and because I was so tired of separating the fabric and turning it under, I just used a foldover faux leather trim on the sleeve edges and on the edge of the hood. My friends "oohed and aahed" over the finished coat and I do like it but decided that next time I will do some sort of welt seam, much easier and I think it would look neater.

Lois, I looked more carefully at your jacket pattern and I see the slot buttonhole. For some reason I was expecting a line of slot buttonholes down the front of the jacket. That jacket looks very appealing and I think I will pick it up. It would be nice for when winter turns the corner toward spring.

BrendaJo, thank you for sharing information about your double cloth coat project. Your voice of experience will be helpful as Lois and I start down this path!

I think starting this after New Years will be fun. I'm going to try and pick up the fabric this week, so I can play with it and think about all those edges.

My Carraroe jacket is almost all hand basted. I think I'll go to the mall after Christmas and look for a teal or raisin colored turtleneck (on sale!) to wear underneath. I love how energetic this jacket looks. That sounds strange to write, but somehow it feels different from a subtle tweed or solid color.

Hi BrendaJo - Thanks for describing your process and your tips. Your coat sounds wonderful. I bet you did get a lot of compliments. Especially nice is the faux leather trim. I needed the tips on the hem and you've helped me think it through. I've been researching this fabric in my sewing books. One book explained there is Double-Cloth and also Double-Faced fabrics. From what I read Double-Faced is easy to separate but Double Cloth (which is my fabric) is more tightly woven and not able to separate as easily. I've tried to pull the layers of my fabric apart and I'm not happy with the results. It is tightly woven and when I pull the layers apart, the surface threads look a bit distorted and pulled off grain. So I plan to skip that approach. I'll test some welt seams on scraps or add bias strips to bind the seams. My fabric is the same on both sides, so I won't be making it reversible. The fabric is gorgeous, and even though it's a double cloth it's not overly thick - I think I'll be able to stitch the seams in the typical manner. I'm not sure about the hem. I might try separating the layers there, and turn under and topstitch as you did.

Thanks again BrendaJo

This week I made a muslin of the pattern. It's a lovely shape! There are some changes I need to make to make it fit me, of course. The neck is too high, I'll need to trim it down. The overall length is long on me. I'll need to take several inches off the bottom so it doesn't hit me at almost the knee. I had a couple of issues with the sleeves fitting into the armhole. The sleeve has a very shallow curve at the top but the armhole itself is quite fitted. I've never seen that combination before. I didn't spend too much time fiddling around with it on the muslin, but I'll have to work things out before I start it in wool. I'll also narrow the sleeve at the cuff, it's just too wide to be flattering on me. But this is a fun pattern. It doesn't feel stiff at all and will be a nice addition to my closet.

Hi Carole - What pattern are you using? Is it the Alpine Coat? Could you describe your fabric again? Is it a heavy weight wool coating?

My status - I've taken out my pattern pieces and have decided to trace the them and cut a muslin. This coat will have flat fell seams and I want all fitting issues out of the way prior to cutting the Vine Ripe Double-cloth fabric.

I will post an update later this week.

Lois

I didn't see this thread in time I've kept out of the sewing loop untill about beginning of the year.

Are you both still working on your coats? How close are you to finishing? In other words: is it too late to join you? I have a WIP sweater I need to finish before starting anything new. I can, probably, start on a coat next week (I have a perfect fabric properly aged in my stash). I don’t want to bog down the sew along, though, if you are pretty much finished with it.

Natalia