no seam allowances

scubagirl608 · Joined: 04 Jan 2008 Posts: 16 Location: Dallas

Have any of you worked with a pattern that do not have the seam allowances drawn on? ... like Neue Mode or BWOF patterns????

What is a good technique for using these? I traced the pattern pieces on art paper and then measured out the seam allowances to draw the cut lines. IT TOOK FOREVER!!! And, that was before I even made my muslins to test the fit!!

I was tempted to add the seam allowances as I cut (by "eyeing it"), but I needed to be more precise than that.

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated! I bought several Neue Mode patterns that I love, but so far they are a pain!

Thanks!!
Becky in Dallas Surprised

Lois · Posted: Sun Feb 03, 2008 11:07 am Post subject:

Becky - Good for you! It's worth the effort and I know it does take some time. Here are tips I use to make the process go faster.
First, Are you using Tracing Paper? I find it much easier to use a really sheer tracing paper which is 24" wide. I purchase mine from DickBlick.com or from a local art supply store. Some people use Dr Exam Table paper but I find that hard to use because it's not as sheer as Tracing paper.

Next, I use a sharp colored pencil or pen, quickly make dashes along the lines to trace the pattern. I "rev up" myself to go fast. Thinking about it too long can really drag it out. So I challenge myself to trace each piece in less than a minute. To mark notches I make straight perpendicular slash lines, copy the grain line, quickly add pattern piece name and number and then move on to the next piece. As you move to other pieces, keep good distance between pieces so you can go back to add seam allowances later. I finding adding the seam allowances all at one time after tracing also speeds up the job.

Last, when adding 5/8" seam allowances, your tape measure is usually 5/8" wide. You can quickly lay it along the traced lines and make quick dashes. Keep moving, you only need the tape measure edge to kiss the tracing line. It doesn't have to conform to each curve. Keep moving the tape measure to each section and make your dashes fast. To add only 3/8" seam allowances, I use my hem gauge. The one with a moveable point guide. Set the point to 3/8" and once again, move fast along the line making dashes. Later you might decide to fill in more dashes but that can be eyeballed or use a ruler to true up lines.

I hope these suggestions simplify the task and help you pick up speed. Please report back and let us know what works for you.

zigzagger · Joined: 07 Jun 2007 Posts: 54 Location: Massachusetts

Great suggestions, Lois. One thing that helps me with a big tracing project like this (I don't know if you've ever made a Jalie pattern, but it fits infants up through plus sizes, so you have to trace it for each size) is to use a purple pen. I know it sounds silly, but it makes it much more fun. Also, putting on music helps- I try to do 2 pieces, with all seam allowances and labelling- per song. Good luck!

Lois · Posted: Fri Mar 21, 2008 10:45 pm Post subject:

Zigzagger- What a great idea!!! Simple tips but they would make the job go faster. Thank you and I'm going to get out my Purple Pen!

Yes I have used Jalie patterns and I like them a lot. I've made the V-neck Tshirt which I love. Good fit. I also made the one with the empire waist and V neck. I really like the Jalies I've made - what is your favorite?