The Savvy Sewer Salon at Sawyer Brook

The New England chapter of ASDP (Association of Sewing and Design Professionals) has dedicated this program year to The Little Black Dress. Jennifer Stern Hasemann has offered to share her design process in our Sew Along venue.

Join me for an exciting sewing adventure -- from pattern to finished garment. I'll be using a dress sloper to design my pattern, but you can feel free to use a pattern of your choice. Learn how to adjust your pattern and pick out the best fabric for the style of your dress. I'll be giving tips and suggestions along the way about everything from getting seams and darts where they need to be -- to selecting fabric -- to professional construction and finishing techniques.

Look to our Black and White Collection to find in-stock fabrics and keep an eye on Just Arrived for more. We post as soon as we can after the fabrics arrive at the warehouse.

I'd love to follow along with this project. Looking forward to hearing the details!

This soundsl like a fun project.
Look foward to the details.

Hey Everyone,

I am so excited to share my little black dress adventure with you!! I've been dreaming about adding a dress to my j stern design pattern collection... Working on a little black dress for the ASDP program might just be the thing to inspire me

Join me as I create a dress sloper, design my pattern and cut out and sew my little black dress... I will share fitting, design and construction techniques and tips with you as work along. Currently I'm working on my dress sloper.

Let's talk a little bit about a dress sloper. If your dress design has a waist seam it's a combination of the bodice and straight (or flared) skirt slopers.





If your dress design does not have a waistline seam, you can start with the torso sloper.


You may also need the sleeve sloper if your dress design has a sleeve.

I will be working with the front/back bodice and straight skirt slopers to make my dress sloper. If you do not have sloper pattern pieces, check out McCall's Pattern Number 2718. This pattern comes complete with bodice, straight skirt and dress (torso) slopers. Use your high bust and full hip to determine the size you should start with. If you have questions, please post them!!

Alternatively, if you have a dress pattern that you want to work with, please feel free. Make a muslin in your size. We will use that muslin to achieve a perfect fit!

Good Evening Everyone,

I pulled out my old slopers... hummm very small. I had to adjust them before cutting out my muslin... Here's what I did.

First, I had to DD-Cup my front bodice. This like this method of doing a full bust adjustment because concentrates directly on the area that needs the room. First I lowered the dart to be more in line with where the fullest part of the bust is. I cut out the dart and moved it down an inch. Then I filled in the hole.



Here's how to increase the cup size of the pattern.

Draw the following slash lines -- 1. From the dart tip to CF (horizontal) and 2. From the tip of the dart to the notch in the front armhole--Create a hinge, do not slash through the armhole.


Cut out the dart and slash the lines. Anchor the top half of the bodice by taping it down along the horizontal slash line.
Position the bottom half of the bodice so that it is 1" from the top half of the bodice. Pivot the bodice above the dart out until the slash has spread 1" at the dart tip. Tape in place.



Measure the top dart leg... notice that it is now longer than the bottom dart leg. Extend the bottom dart leg so that it equals the top dart leg in length. Lengthening the bottom dart leg will add a curve to the side seam when the dart is closed. This shaped side seam may need to be eased into the back side seam to provide extra room for an ample bust.




In addition to increasing the cup size of the bodice sloper, I also needed to add 2" of length to get the waistline of the pattern to sit on my actual waistline.

Hi Jennifer,

This sounds like so much fun! I have many dress pattens that I would love to try, but a sloper is probably a great idea. I will work on getting one. You are going to design a LBD from the sloper? Will you be using a woven or knit fabric?

I just read the bust adjustment that you did to your pattern. I typically do it differently than that - probably a more traditional method, yet I am sure the end result is the same. I do not draw a line from the bust point to CF - I go down parallel to the CF, then spread the pattern down and the dart then opens. This also creates additional length.

I will dig up a pattern and try to get a muslin going. I am starting two PR classes this week, so i'm not sure how much time I will have, but would love to give it a go, especially for the holidays.

Great to be in another one of your sewalongs! See you soon! Deb S

Hi Deb,

I will be using my sloper to design a lbd using some sort of woven fabric.. I've been drooping over all the black fabrics that are available here at Sawyerbrook! ... The full bust adjustment that I showed above is my favorite way to make this adjustment because it really concentrates on the bust area. (I really like how it gives the front side seam a curved shape that can be eased into the back side seam for more bust room!) But, I do agree with you that most FBA can be equally effective!

I look forward to sewing along with you ! Jen

BTW... how are your khaki pants coming out?

Hi Jen,

Ok - I have never tried this way to do an FBA. I ALWAYS have to do one! I'm always up to try something new, so I am going to try it on half scale. You know me, here come the questions:

1. When you say " cut out the dart" and slash on the horizontal line....what do you mean by cut out the dart? You have already repositioned it, right?

2. Do you always add the same in length as you do the spread at the apex?

3. I am having a hard time visualizing the "extra ease at the side."..can you explain or illustrate that a little better?

4. How did you determine how much to add?

5. How large would you make this dart? In other words, if it became too large, could you spread it into 2 darts?

The khaki pants pattern is perfected down to the knee area. Looks good, I think. When the colder weather came, I decided to make pants instead of capris, so I now have to extend the length and I should be all set! When done, I will send you a pic! Now that the holidays are almost here, I will probably make them out of a dressier fabric - Do you think that would look ok?

Jen,

I have the Mccalls 2718 sloper but it is a size 12. I am a size 10 with an FBA (33 1/2 in high bust, this one is 34 and directions say to go smaller, not larger). Looks like I will have to petite the bodice (too long between shoulder and bust point) and take away some width as well (too wide between side seam and center front). Is it ok to use this one or should I buy the sIze 10? With your help, I can probably make this work.....I think, but wanted your opinion. The 12 will probably be ok for bottoms, though.

If you think it is ok, where is the best spot to remove width in front bodice - at CF or between shoulder and waist?

Tks - Deb

Hi Deb,

The reason why it's suggested to go down a size if you are between sizes is that it's harder to decrease than increase the shoulders and high bust.. Double check your HB measurement... if you truly do measure 33 1/2, it will probably be ok to use the 12... If you've measured loosely adding a little "built-in ease", the difference will be more than 1/2", and I would go down to the size 10. I would take out a 1/4" somewhere along the shoulder seam --If you take if off at CF, the neckline may be a little snug : )

and... answers to the FBA questions:

1. You need to reposition the dart vertically to get it in line with your fullest part... Measure from the center of your shoulder to the apex. Compare that to the pattern... most likely you'll have to lower it a little (most patterns are designed for a perky B cup) Then you need to cut out the dart and slash across the pattern so you can lower the bottom half of the bodice... the dart will become larger as you spread the pattern. ... Does that make sense?

2. I'm not sure I understand this question.... If you need to add one size from a B cup... spread the pattern 3/8", to D-cup the pattern spread 3/4"... as you spread the pattern, the top dart leg will lengthen... So you need to length the bottom dart leg so you can sew them back together.

3. As you lengthen the lower dart leg, you'll notice that it extends past the original side seam. When you blend the new dart into the side seam, you are actually adding a wedge of extra fabric... starting at the dart leg and blending to 0 at the waist. When you sew this dart closed, the side seam is slightly lengthened because of the curved shape the extended dart legs created. Usually you can match the side seams at the underarm and waistline and ease the extra in the front into the back very easily. ... (The more you have to adjust the bust, the more the extra length will be. For example, if you have to DD- cup the pattern, you're adding a whole inch... that creates more of a curve in the side seam than adding 3/8"... Does that make sense?)

4. See the answer to question 3

5. Check out the last pic in the post showing how to do the FBA... When you redraw the dart, the upper dart leg starts at it's original position at the side seam and then meets the lower dart leg at the tip of the dart. Notice that some of the excess paper created by the adjustment is not taken back up in the dart (there is excess paper above the upper dart leg. Be sure to redraw your dart like that-- If you follow the original upper dart leg, the dart intake will be too much. Does that make sense? I don't think I would make it into two darts... interesting thought though....

After saying that... If the difference between you and the pattern is more than 3 cup sizes... You may need to get a larger size pattern. There is a limit to how much you can increase the cup size without throwing off the grainline...


Finally.... You can definitely use a dressy fabric to make the khaki pants!! I love it (and I'm psyched that you have a perfected pattern Jen (can't wait to see a pic of them!)

Hi all, I hope you're working on your slopers... I'll be posting more progress tomorrow Jen

Hi Jen,


Thanks for the explaination of the FBA. I will get out my 1/2 scale drawings and try it...stay tuned for questions.

I am cutting out the bodice of the sloper now. I will stitch it up tomorrow evening, then on to the skirt part Do you want to see the bodice part before moving along to the skirt or do you want to see the whole thing completed?

Re: Khaki pants: If I would stop taking classes, I would have time to finish them...LOL!!

Thanks!!! Deb

Hey Deb,
You can post pics either before or after you finish the skirt and I know what you mean about classes getting in the way of sewing stuff for yourself

Hi Jen, My sloper is pretty much ready. The top and skirt are done - I just have to put them together. I did not do the sleeves, as I assumed that we weren't doing them for this project - what do you think?

Where are we going from here? I will check out the SB fabrics.....waiting to hear from you!!!

Have a great Thanksgiving with your family!

Deb