Sewing Books - Favorite Resources and "Must-Haves"

Lois

I am a book junkie! I love reading and learning. Over the years I've tried to improve my sewing skills with every project, so I often research and read sewing books for new techniques or updated twists on proven methods. I seek out old sewing books at used book stores as well as keeping up to date with new publications. Because we moved across country a few years ago, I had to purge my vast sewing library because my sewing room is smaller in my current house. But I carefully considered which books were "keepers" based on the number of times I go back to them for information and inspiration. I would like to share some of my keepers with the Salon members, and also want to hear which books are your favorites. What books are "Must Haves" for beginners and what books contribute to your creativity?

Lois

Reader's Digest Complete Guide to Sewing - copyright 1976

I've had this book for years and it is my #1 resource. You might think it's odd that my #1 book is not written by one of the Big Sewing Celebrities! Yes - I have many of those popular books but the Reader's Digest book is the one I pull out first to review a technique or find out how to do something. Do you need to know how to do a welt pocket, or buttonhole, or how to choose the appropriate hem and exactly how to do a hand stich? This is the quick reference for every basic and advanced sewing technique. I think it is a MUST HAVE for every sewist's library and here's why......

It's got all the basics.....such as picking fabrics to patterns; fitting; making test garments and muslins; basic construction skills - hand stitches, pleats, tucks, hems, darts etc. And chapters on necklines and collars; waistlines and waistbands; sleeves; pockets; hems and edge finishes; closures - zippers, buttonholes, fasteners; and an excellent chapter on Tailoring. Also sewing for the home and for children.

Unique to this book are the page headers which give you cross reference page identifiers for techniques used in the instructions. Here's an example:

If you read instructions for hems .....the book describes various hems choices, blind hems vs flat hems, etc and exactly how do them. The illustrations are excellent showing exactly how your needle would enter and exit the fabric. In addition, the page header includes the page numbers for various hand stitches which you might want to review when stitching your hem such as the overcast stitch and the uneven slip stitch.
Another example....the instructions for welt pockets cross references where to look for for hand bar tacks, how to reduce seam bulk and securing threads.

This text is very user friendly and comprehensive. If I am sewing a child's dress or tailoring a wool jacket there is always a time when I pull out this book to quickly refresh my memory on how to do something.

You can get the 1976 edition in used book stores. However there is a recent edition in retail bookstores and online sources. The changes are, the new version includes information about sergers and contemporary things such as machine embroidery. The older version has a more complete chapter on Tailoring. I prefer to use my 1976 edition but new sewers might benefit from the new edition.

Lois

Easy Guide to Sewing Top & T-shirts by Marcy Tilton
Copyright 1998 - Part of Taunton Press' Sewing Companion Library

This book is SO handy to have on your bookshelf. Who can't use a new top? I have been disappointed in Ready-To-Wear tops lately. Finding only colors or patterns that don't fit my wardrobe, or being disappointed in the fiber content, or garments not holding shape or color after washing. So I have been in the market for making some new tops for the office. However, many of us tailoring types might not have the skill-set to make tops. At least that was the case for me. Constructing tops might seem easier than tailoring, but there are other issues to address such as eliminating fussy facings, binding neckline edges, achieving smooth machine stitched hems and generally attempting to make a top that looks good and rivals Ready-To-Wear. This book helped me upgrade my finished results and I learned a lot too!

For instance, I don't often sew with knits and I learned some very handy tips - examples are:
My problem: Hemming a knit top and eliminating a rippled hem and preventing over-stretching the hem or seams.
Marcy's tips: (1) serge a strip of knit or tricot fusible interfacing inside the hem which is later fused in place - this supports the hem area for top-stitching, giving it extra stability. (2) Don't using a twin needle for machine top-stitched hems because the needles stretch the hem out of shape. Instead she recommends doing 2 rows of stitches of straight stitching for the same look, which keeps the hem more fluid than a twin needle hem. My hems looked terrific! (3) Binding the neckline - I followed Marcy's tips exactly for a nicely bound neckline and a very straight V at the V-neck (which can so often look like an enlongated U on T-shirts - ick)

Other topics covered in the book are Selecting the proper pattern for your body type; Working with knits and wovens; Fit and Proofing the pattern plus many Construction techniques including sewing with bias, buttonholes etc.

This book is 120 pages of solid content and beautiful, clear photography. Marcy's approach to sewing is very exact. Having attended one of her classes, I know that she tests and engineers her methods to work out problems and perfect her approach. So using Marcy's book for your project reference gives you a "Jump-Start" on making tops. You can avoid the testing and follow her step-by-step instructions.

This is a good addition to any sewist's library.

Lois · Posted: Sat Aug 18, 2007 9:30 pm Post subject: Tshirt using Marcy Tilton's book

Here are two photos of my T-shirt made using Marcy Tilton's book as a reference.

Nata · Joined: 14 Apr 2007 Posts: 72

Lois, awesome. It fits like a glove Confused

I like "Sewing shortcuts" and "hight fashion sewing secrets" by Claire Schaeffer

BrendaJo · Joined: 20 Apr 2007 Posts: 28 Location: Cape Cod

I don't have a lot of storage space in my home so I am constantly clearing the house of clutter. In a recent purge of my collection of sewing books I kept several that I absolutely cannot live without--Claire Schaeffer
s Couture Techniques; The Vogue Sewing Book which contains every bit of sewing information I have ever needed and David Coffin's Shirtmaking which is a fountain of information about shirts and shirtmaking , everytime I look through it I am inspired to sew shirts and have several that I am so fond of I will wear them out.

Lois · Posted: Fri Aug 31, 2007 6:47 pm Post subject:

Hi Brenda - I agree with you about Claire Schaeffer's book and also David Coffin's book. I have both in my libarary. I also have the Vogue book but I have to say I rarely pick it up! I guess the Reader's Digest answers my questions first.

Another favorite of mine is Roberta Carr's Couture...the Art of Fine Sewing is a good one to have in the library. Anytime I work with fabric on the bias, I refresh my memory with her book.

Baglady · Joined: 01 Sep 2007 Posts: 4 Location: Charlotte, NC

I love Sandra Betzina books. They are very easy to understand. I also love Shirley Adams and purchased a collection of her books from her now defunct t.v. show, "The Sewing Connection" which I watched religiously. Her books are awesome and showcases her talent and creativity.

After YEARs of not sewing a stitch, I have started sewing again. Those books are excellent reference material.

Lois · Posted: Sun Sep 02, 2007 6:47 pm Post subject: Sandra Betzina books

Hi Baglady - I have to agree with you - Sandra's books are very well done, with lots of inspiration (especially the revised edition of Power Sewing Step-By-Step with many color photos) Although there are no color photos in my old copy of the 1st edition of Power Sewing, mine has many dog-eared pages and post-it notes marking favorite sections.

More Power Sewing is one I refer to frequently for Tailoring Techniques.

I also like the fact that Sandra keeps her instruction to a single page for each. It's easy to refresh, review or study a particular technique.

Have you tried her Vogue Patterns? I have not and wondered what kind of success people have had with them.

Glad to hear you've found your way back to sewing. I find it keeps me centered and has a calming effect. Have you tried the Loes Hinse patterns? They are easy to sew with good results. I've enjoyed wearing the Retro Jacket, and I'm about to begin the Capri jacket in the Sew-Along section of this website.

Happy Sewing!

Therese · Joined: 23 Apr 2007 Posts: 4 Location: Bakersfield, CA

More Fabric Savvy by Sandra Betzina from Taunton Press
Fitting Solutions Pattern-Altering Tips for Garments That Fit from Taunton Press

I love these two books which I find myself reaching for over and over. I like just about everyone else have to alter my patterns and Fitting Solutions shows me how.
I use More Fabric Savvy to help me with my fabric choices from Sawyer Brook. I come across new fabric terms that this book, and a general dictionary, answer for me.
With wool jersey so available, does anyone know of a good book that they recomend to learn about felting?

Lois · Posted: Sat Sep 08, 2007 9:44 am Post subject: Wool Jersey Felting

Therese: I don't know of a book that addresses wool felting but I remember a Threads article on the subject, in Issue #109. Also, on their website there is a very thorough article on the subject:
Here:
http://www.taunton.com/threads/pages/t00205.asp

Thanks for the mention about the fitting book. I had forgotten about that book, and will pull it out for a refresher.

Like you, I use a fabric reference book when going through my SawyerBrook swatches. I've learned a lot by doing that and over time have developed a skill of identifying fabrications with my fingers. I test myself first by handling the swatch and then peak at Barb's swatch descriptions to find out if I'm right. Rolling Eyes

We sew-ists can be such fanatics about our fabrics!! LOL

Kip Cowher · Joined: 02 Jan 2008 Posts: 10 Location: Pennsylvania

I have Adele P. Margolis book 'Design your own Dress Patterns' , it's a great book for adjusting patterns to design new clothing !

I recently borrowed Sew News book 'Sew Much Better' It's a great refresher course since I've been away from clothing for a while. It also has many tips and techniques for many different fabrics.

From Susan Huxley, Rodale books.. 'Sewing Secrets from the Fashion Industry' has interesting and thorough measuring, pattern fitting.

I like Nancy Zieman's 'Fitting Finesse' method to adjust patterns the best so far.

Kip

sewingkidsclothes · Joined: 22 Jul 2008 Posts: 1 Location: Alberta Canada

I love love love The Zapp Method of Couture Sewing.this is the first book ive had that i can understand for fitting and altering patterns.I have sandra betzinas 1 book and i could never figure out what she was talking about.

HappySew&Sew · Joined: 08 Aug 2008 Posts: 1 Location: Laguna Niguel, CA

I agree! I found this book very helpful. Does anyone know if she has any other books? Does she ever give classes?