Capri Jacket Sew Along: Week One

Carole · Posted: Fri Jun 01, 2007 8:37 am Post subject: Capri Jacket Sew Along: Week One

Welcome to the first week of the Capri Jacket sew along. My name is Carole and I work part time at Sawyer Brook cutting beautiful fabric - a dream job for sure!

Join us this month as we work together sewing up the simple Capri Jacket pattern by Loes Hinse/Textile Studio.

Please introduce yourself when you join in. Let us know what fabric you're using, buttons, etc. And there's nothing like a picture or two to provide inspiration to everyone.

I'll be cutting out my jacket out of the gorgeous Luxor (from the Back Room) this afternoon. Probably a muslin too. When I made my purple jacket with Colleen, I cut out a large. Maybe this time I'll cut out out a medium in a drapey muslin and see how it looks.

Carole · Posted: Sat Jun 02, 2007 5:45 pm Post subject:

My Capri Jacket from the Luxor fabric is cut out. I cut out a size medium, this time. I was reading in an online forum somewhere that most of Ms. Hinse's customers make and wear her clothes too big. Also I bought smaller sized tops when I went shopping at L.L. Bean a couple of weeks ago when I was in Maine, so maybe my exercise routine is paying off a bit!

As I look at the white jacket all cut out, I'm getting a tad nervous about wearing it once it is sewn. I wear a lot of black and other dark colors so I feel like this white is very noticeable. The subtle texture keeps it from being too bright and the silk gives it a slight shimmer. It should look gorgeous over dark pants this summer!

My sewing room is hot, hot, hot. It's warm and sticky here in central Massachusetts.

Barb · Posted: Sat Jun 02, 2007 6:29 pm Post subject:

Ok I think Carole needs a little support here! Since I'm the one that kept raving about white jackets, I'll be the first to say this is going to be stunning!

Here's a thought...if you wear it with a mid-contrast color rather than a stark contrast, the white will speak less loudly. White and khaki or camel makes a great summer duo or white with soft pastels or white with cocoa brown rather than chocolate. Just a few thoughts on wearing white. Anybody else?

I don't have my Capri pattern yet. I'm still mulling over my fabric choice. I had a few emails from people who are considering fabrics for this project. Anyone else thinking about your choices? If so, please share!

Lois · Posted: Mon Jun 04, 2007 1:11 am Post subject: Joining the Sew Along

I'm going the Sew Along and I look forward to hearing what every one else is doing. Many of the suggested fabrics are wonderful - Luxor is perfect but I don't wear pure white so I've chosen something else. I'm going to use Pueblo. I drape is what I have in mind. I live in a warm/hot client and I think this fabrication will wear well for several of our seasons. I'll be testing
the interfacing options and will probably go for an unlined version.

What is everyone else thinking about?

SavvyAdmin · Site Admin Joined: 31 Mar 2007 Posts: 23

This post is from Mary:

Last fall, I made the Capri jacket in a beautiful deep blue chenille; however, I was not happy with the fit. I am narrow across the shoulders and made "V" neck adjustments to keep the neckline from being too low.

I am excited about trying this pattern again and being a part of the "Sew Along". I will check out my pattern and muslin and if required, will order a new pattern. I am looking at fabrics online with SB and will make a decision in the next day or so.

Thanks for the opportunity to "Sew Along".

Carole · Posted: Mon Jun 04, 2007 8:54 pm Post subject:

Welcome Mary and Lois! Glad to have you join in the project. Lois, I just finished a skirt out of the Pueblo fabric and it is stunning. So nice in fact that I'm going to make a Capri Jacket out of it in a few days. The fabric is so drapey and swingy. I made Loes Hinse's gore skirt, view A, just this afternoon. I'll be wearing it to my daughter's graduation on Wednesday. The peachy/beige/coral color is a sophisticated neutral. I bought a cream colored short sleeve rayon jersey shirt from Ann Taylor this weekend to wear with it.

Mary, have you ever considered tracing your patterns when you are unsure of the size? I often do, if I think I'm between sizes and need to make a trial muslin. I don't do it if the pattern is complicated with a lot of pieces. But the Capri Jacket has so few pieces that it is a cinch to trace. I've traced off the large and medium sizes so far. I'll probably trace off the XS for my daughter. I use Swedish tracing paper that I get from the Birch Street Pattern Co.

Just tonight I sewed together the fronts and back, shoulders and underarm seams on my Luxor fabric. I serged the edges together with a narrow three thread serge to keep them from raveling. This jacket is looking so cool. When I tried it on with the sleeves just pinned in place I could tell that it would be a winner.

I'm not planning on using interfacing for the buttonholes and buttons. I'll probably use rather small buttons that don't need much support.

Tomorrow I'll try and get the lining cut out and maybe pick up some buttons at Sawyer Brook.

In addition to the jacket from the Pueblo fabric, I'm going to make one out of a fabric called Coyote Canyon that was part of a special collection a couple of months ago. The simple lines of the Capri should help me get over my phobia of matching horizontal stripes across the center front

Lois · Posted: Tue Jun 05, 2007 9:01 am Post subject: Luxor jacket

Carole - I agree with Barb's suggestion of wearing lower contrast colors with the white jacket - such as khaki or sand/tan. That is such an upscale look. Another idea I just had if you want to stick with a black coordinate would be to use some black yarn or decorative thread to bring the black into the jacket. One friend of mine used a silk ribbon and did a blanket hand stitch along the finished edges of a jacket and it was beautiful. Very Chanel-like. There is a tape called Tiger Tape sold in the sewing supply catalogs that has marks printed on it. You put the tape along the jacket edge and use the marks to guide your stitches for perfect placement. Or get adventurous and couch some black yarn in gentle curved lines across the garment body....just food for thought....

Nata · Joined: 14 Apr 2007 Posts: 86

Barb,
What do you think about this fabric http://store.sawyerbrook.com/Templates/frmTemplateP.asp?CatalogID=3898&Zoom=Yes&SubFolderId=54 for the capri jacket? I don't have a swatch to check the hand.

Carole · Posted: Tue Jun 05, 2007 9:07 pm Post subject:

It was hard to get into my sewing room today! Finally I found some time to press the seams of the jacket and sleeves and set in the sleeves. While I was sewing this evening I noticed that the Luxor fabric is very, very ravely. So I spent some time serging the jacket edges, hem and sleeve hems. Since the curves are rather gentle and I didn't want to stretch them out with the serger, I gently zig zagged them.

I'm thrilled with Lois's and Barb's suggestions of wearing the white jacket with a neutral bottom, like khaki or sand. What a 'aha' moment when I read those! I guess my closet is just stuffed with black pants and jeans. I think I would very much like to have a pair of soft sand or cocoa colored pants. That would be much softer looking and more complimentary to my coloring. Thank you!

I also liked your idea, Lois, of using black threads as an accent in the jacket. When I get closer to done I'll have to figure out exactly how I'm going to wear this.

I think another name for the fabric could have been 'Whisper'. That's what came to mind when I slipped it on to see how it looked when I put the sleeves in. The jacket feels almost more like a delicate blouse and is as soft as can be.

Nata · Joined: 14 Apr 2007 Posts: 86

I’d like to join in on the fun too.

Carole, you are going too fast:) I don’t even have the pattern yet. I hope I can finish it before the sew-along is over. BTW, how lmuch time do we have to finish the jacket?

I have a wedding dress alterations to finish while I am waiting for the pattern and deciding on the fabric. I don't think I'll be able to start untill sometime next week.

Barb · Posted: Wed Jun 06, 2007 2:59 pm Post subject:

Hi Nata
I checked the Mt. Desert fabric today. It would not be my first choice for this project. The hand is firm, not stiff. You would be missing some of the drape that is so desireable with the Textile Studio pattern. You would also encounter a fair amount of bulk in the seams so you'd need to account for that in your fitting, i.e. the turn of the cloth is significant. We'll send you a swatch today so you can see for yourself.

Carole · Posted: Wed Jun 06, 2007 9:38 pm Post subject:

Welcome Nata! I think you will really enjoy making your jacket. My first jacket is moving along kind of quickly this month - but my daughter's school ended today, so much of my free time will disappear starting tomorrow. Instead of sewing I'll be driving here and there and everywhere so she can have a social life!

I'll be trying to sew the lining together in the next couple of days. And I need to go unearth the Coyote Canyon fabric from my stash and get ready to cut it out.

My skirt from the Pueblo fabric was so much fun to wear to her graduation today. I absolutely have to have one of these Capri Jackets from it. I think a tank top out of it underneath would make it like a lightweight warm weather sweater set.

Barb · Posted: Wed Jun 06, 2007 10:11 pm Post subject:

Just an FYI for those listening in...most of us haven't started yet. We'll catch up with Carole rather quickly once we do and we can always go back to previous posts and keep the discussion going. Has anyone else started yet?

Lois · Posted: Thu Jun 07, 2007 12:08 am Post subject:

I am also waiting for my pattern, plus I have out of town guests for the next 5 days. But I'll be gearing up to join the Sew Along as soon as possible. Carole - thanks for all the info and tips. Can't wait to dig into my own piece of Pueblo. I'm glad that worked well for your skirt.

Carole · Posted: Sat Jun 09, 2007 10:53 am Post subject:

I spent some time yesterday cutting out the lining pattern for my Capri Jacket. I followed the steps in Sandra Betzina's Power Sewing. Here's a brief version of what I did:

I laid out the jacket front piece with the facing on top. Then I laid the facing directly on top of that. I used freezer paper (I'm out of my beloved Swedish pattern paper) to trace the part of the front jacket not covered by the facing. I added one and a quarter inches to the edge that will be attached to the facing. I also added about a half inch at the shoulder edge of the lining piece, tapering to nothing at the neck edge to accommodate the shoulder pad. I also added about the same amount at the underarm, tapering to nothing at the waist.

For the back lining piece I laid out the jacket back pattern piece with the neck facing on top. Then I traced around the portion of the back not covered with the facing.

Just this morning I realized that I forgot to allow a seam allowance at the top edge that will attach to the facing, so I need to see if Ms. Betzina recommends that. I think I also need to add at the top of the shoulder, same as the front and at the underarm, same as the front.

I left the sleeves along, figuring that I just need to trim off the lower edge when I'm attaching them to the jacket.

I got the rayon lining almost ironed yesterday. My daughter and I took a drive to Sawyer Brook and picked out buttons too. But I forgot to get the name of them (Persephone maybe?). I'll post the name next week.

I also picked up more Pueblo and lining, buttons for that too. My sewing room is chaos! I kind of like it that way because I know things are moving along.

I may need to bring out my other machine because my daughter is now spending time up there sewing and I found myself without a machine yesterday!