Carole & Colleen Interpret the Loes Hinse Capri Pattern

Lois · Posted: Mon May 07, 2007 9:42 am Post subject:

Your jacket sounds like it's coming along very well. I'm interested in what you chose for interfacing and lining..

Lois

Carole · Posted: Mon May 07, 2007 9:15 pm Post subject:

Here is a picture of my finished Capri Jacket! It looks a little like the bottom hem is uneven in this photo, but I don't think it is.

What do you think?

Lois · Posted: Mon May 07, 2007 9:37 pm Post subject: Capri jacket

Hi Carole - Looks wonderful - love the color on you. The jacket looks very nice - very soft. You are going to enjoy it.

How was the tencel to press? How did you approach it? Press Cloth? What iron temp?

Thanks
Lois

Carole · Posted: Wed May 09, 2007 8:18 am Post subject:

Hi Lois,

The tencel was spongy to press. I have a super steamy Rowenta iron and it can really blast fabric. But after testing it on the tencel, I decided that the fabric got kind of droopy and weepy after too much steam so I just used a bit of steam and pressure. After all, I chose the fabric because I liked the soft, almost worn in type of feel to it.

I use a silk organza press cloth. I think I read about that in a Threads article once. I love it! We have the silk organza at SB (for about $8.50 a yard, maybe?) and I just bought a yard once. It is great stuff. Previously I was using one of those packaged cotton press cloths that I bought from a chain store. Well, I'm not going back. For starters, I can see through the organza. It's also light and fluffy and doesn't pick up lint.

I remained to true to the pattern instructions that don't call for interfacing. But, the tencel does have lovely drape and weight that supports the buttonholes and buttons. I also used buttons that weren't overly large, so there wasn't that much to support in the first place.

I used a rayon bemberg lining because I like the way it feels more than the polyester that we carry. And the range of colors is enormous. I can always find a nearly perfect match.

Yesterday after work at SB I went 'shopping' and picked up a beautiful piece of lightly textured silk called Pueblo that I think I'm going to make another jacket out of. It's a lovely bone, coral, peach neutral. I think I'm going to make Ms. Hinse's Tango skirt to go with it. I have to come up with something to wear to my daughter's middle school graduation and I don't want to look like all the other moms who shop at a certain store at the mall!

I looked up the Retro Jacket and it looks wonderful. I like the drapeyness of it and it looks feminine. Is that the one where you just lined the sleeves?

Lois · Posted: Thu May 10, 2007 9:39 am Post subject: Retro Jacket

Carole - Yes I made the Loese Hinse Retro Jacket in a silk tweed. I underlined the sleeves and now that I think about it....also underlined the center back piece. I used china silk by cutting same pattern pieces (sleeves and back) and treating the silk and china silk as "one". Lay them wrong sides together and construct the jacket. Having the china silk on the back piece keeps the jacket from clinging to your body. And the sleeves won't catch on your blouse or top. It was a quick treatment for those 2 problem areas on unlined silk tweed jackets. I loved wearing this jacket - love where the shoulder seam sits on me. Often I find the LH sleeves tight in the bicep so I go up a size when cutting those. Other than that, I made no changes.

Lois

Carole · Posted: Fri May 11, 2007 8:23 am Post subject:

Hi Lois,

I'd like to try a jacket with a partial lining and fashion fabric treated as one. Do the fabrics lie nicely together without one sort of pulling tighter than the other at the seam? Did you have to baste them at a center point to keep them from doing that?

As I look at the Retro Jacket, it looks like there is more fabric across the front of the body. Did you interface that? And the pattern is shown with the jacket buttoned. Do you always wear it that way? Sort of like a blouse? Does it look nice unbuttoned?

It looks like it would be a nice warm weather jacket for when/if evenings cool off.

Carole · Posted: Fri May 11, 2007 8:33 pm Post subject:

I went ahead and ordered the Retro Jacket pattern today, along with the Gore Skirt and Tuscan Shirt patterns. I couldn't order just one . . .

Jane in KC · Posted: Mon May 14, 2007 9:50 am Post subject:

Carol, your jacket looks so pretty on you! Thank you for the picture.

I think what you are seeing as "uneven" in the photo is just where the bottom happens to cup inward in one spot (because you have your hands on your hips?). Anyway, I doubt that it is actually uneven.

Carole · Posted: Wed May 16, 2007 8:29 am Post subject:

Thank you for the compliment Jane!

I'm forming plans for a new Capri Jacket. Yesterday when I was working at Sawyer Brook, there were some new swatches of summer fabric from the Back Room. There was a gorgeous white fabric that I just had to touch. It has a light texture of what reminds me of ripples of sand.

I have never worn a white jacket and I only occasionally wear a white blouse under a jacket or sweater. I think I stopped being interested in white clothing around the time my daughter was born. But Barb (the owner of SBDF) and I have been talking about white clothing. She loves it and wears it all summer. She is so enthusiastic about it that I've begun thinking that maybe I've missed something by consciously excluding it from my sewing and buying.

This new white fabric (it should be named and up on the website soon) has me thinking about a Capri Jacket out of it. It drapes beautifully and the texture is just about right for me.

This could be the start of something new!

Lois · Posted: Thu May 17, 2007 9:58 am Post subject:

Nata · Joined: 14 Apr 2007 Posts: 86

Lois,
I love your jacket. The color suits you well too.

Carole, I don't know how one can sew and work at the fabric store. You must have a great will power. My stash would have been out of control.

Janee · Sawyer Brook Staff Joined: 05 Apr 2007 Posts: 72

Nata,

Carole is just like the rest of us at SBDF - the proportion of fabric vs $ in our paychecks is out of control! When I started working there almost 4 years ago, I had so many SB fabrics already in my stash that it took me a while to feel free to buy more as I worked - but if you think it's difficult to ignore a fabric that speaks to you while shopping, just try cutting it for customers' orders after order! Many times I simply plunk down one of my personal color swatch cards on a fabric I'm considering, and everyone agrees I simply have to own it!

I have been getting better about sewing up what I already own - trips to PACC conferences and the local sewing Expo have made me realize these are perfect opportunities to create a new garment to show off!