Reducing Bulk in Seam Allowances

Nata · Joined: 14 Apr 2007 Posts: 86

While making my batik blouse I had a question pop in my head. I ususally sew late evening when kids are off to bed. It's quiet in the house and my mind goes wondering Smile

You should hear conversations that take place in my head LOL

There are a certain things I do not even thinking twice about them. For example, I became more conscious about bulk in seam allowances after reading Roberta Carr’s book on couture techniques a few years ago. I was surprised how thinner they feel after just trimming small triangles off the corners of all crossed seam allowances.

So here goes my question: how do you handle iron-on interfacing?

I lay the cut piece of fashion fabric on the off-the-bolt interfacing and press lightly with hot iron, so it sticks just a little. I then cut it around the fashion piece. But then I end up with interfaced seam allowances. After I stitched the seams, I pull the interfacing off the seam allowance and trim off as close to the stitching as I can. I don’t do that with very loose fabric, but any fabric strong enough is a fair game.

I thought about cutting interfacing w/o seam allowances, but I like the extra security of it being stitched in case it becomes loose (like the touch-of-gold). I also thought about tracing the pieces to the interfacing and cutting just outside the seam lines. I am not sure if it’ll be faster. I don’t think it’ll not be as accurate.

BrendaJo · Joined: 20 Apr 2007 Posts: 41 Location: Cape Cod

There are times when I think that I need to catch a little of the interfacing in the seam allowance for stability but I usually cut the interfacing without the seam allowance. Another quick trick is to cut the pattern piece from the interfacing and stitch around the piece with your machine unthreaded then cut away the seam allowance by following the resultant dotted line. A little like cutting out paper doll clothes.

Evelyn · Joined: 25 Jul 2008 Posts: 3 Location: Massachusetts

I was taught, many moons ago, to cut my interfacing from the pattern then trim the edges a half inch. Also, we always cut diagonally just inside the seam on outside corners like collar points. When fusing to the fashion fabric you just position the interfacing so the edges are the same distance on all sides then fuse as usual. You'll have an eighth inch of interfacing into the seam allowance and avoid all the tearing off (ugh!!)

The trick is of course knowing which edges have been trimmed, so I usually leave the pattern pinned onto the interfacing. I usually just cut by eye, but you can use one of those see through rulers to align with the cutting lines and draw a light pencil line to guide your trimming. On curves you can measure and mark in dashed lines, or just do your best. It really isn't critical that it be exact, but it is good to have it mostly stitched in the seam. A little more or less on the seam allowance won't be any problem.

Actually, when I was learning to sew there was no such thing as fusible interfacing!! We trimmed the points then pinned the interfacing to the fashion fabric and trimmed the interfacing close to each seam after it was stitched. When fusibles came in I resisted using them because to me it seemed it took more time to fuss with the trimming and fusing. I do sometimes use fusibles for the body they give, but I really do prefer the good old-fashioned, couture way.

Sawyer Brook has non-fusible interfacings too.

Evelyn
sbdf, etc