Rayon Batik Sew Along -- * ACTIVE PROJECT: Join in! *

Nata · Joined: 14 Apr 2007 Posts: 74

With summer in full swing and days growing increasingly hot, it’s high time to sew some airy summer garments. Rayon batiks in my stash are practically begging to see the sunlight (they are stuck in sunlight proof stash boxes). I hope you can join me working with this wonderful fabric.

There is no limitation on what pattern you decide to use or what type of garment you choose to make. Using rayon batik is the only “rule” of this sew-along.

I think I’ll start today and give it a week or two to select a pattern, and to purchase fabric and notions. There is no set schedule. You are welcome to go faster than that, or slower. Just make sure to share your experiences.

Natalia

Nata · Joined: 14 Apr 2007 Posts: 74

I decided to do a little reading about rayon batiks before cutting my fabric. Sawyer Brook carries hand made rayon batiks from Bali. Here is the link you can check for yourself http://store.sawyerbrook.com/Templates/frmTemplateL.asp?SubFolderID=161&SearchYN=N&batik-fabrics. This got me thinking: what is hand-made when it comes to the fabric, how involved is the process? Here is what I came up with.

First the rayon fabric is dyed in the color of batik pattern. The info I read said that it needs to be done with shorter fabric pieces (about 11yds long) because long pieces get heavy and unmanageable. Plus they use shorter pieces to create variegated or tie-dye color effect when desired. Then fabric is hung by the salvage on very small nails to dry.

Once dry, fabric is stretched on a work table by the rollers conveyer belt style. Next design is drawn on the fabric using melted wax. In older times design was done by hand using tool called chanting. Chanting resembles small copper bawl with a spout and bamboo handle. The artist would fill the chanting with wax and slowly pour it on the fabric drawing patterns.

I took a closer look at my batiks. Designs are too accurate to be hand drawn. Yet that are not exactly the same as you would get with automated printing, and not quite symmetric. I believe they have to use some sort of stamps, which are positioned on fabric by hand, hence resulting in delicious irregularity of batik patterns.

Once wax is dry, fabric is dyed again in the background color. It is bleached when background is lighter than pattern in color. This part sounds simple, yet the more I think about it, more complicated it seems. I can’t even dye one piece in the color I want. They have to work with over-dyeing where under-color undertones background color. To make it more complicated, patterns on rayon are often in different colors. My Bramble fabric has patterns in blue, green, yellow and everything in between. Yet the background color is the same all through the fabric.

Then fabric is hung to dry again. After fabric is dry it’s placed in a vat of very hot water. Hot water melts the wax, which is skimmed off the surface and reused. Fabric is then dried once again, cut ends are stitched together to make one continuous length of fabric, and rolled on bolts.

I have a question to Barb, or Carole. Does you fabric come in 11yd lengths stitched together? Seems like a very wasteful arrangement, as you would need to cut around joining seams to accommodate your customers.

zigzagger · Joined: 07 Jun 2007 Posts: 54 Location: Massachusetts

Thanks for the background Nata! I knew the process had to do with wax, but I didn't realize how complicated it was. Thanks for sharing!

Lois · Posted: Tue Jul 01, 2008 9:55 am Post subject:

WOW Nata - that info is so interesting. I remember seeing the little holes in the selvages, and now I know how they got there!

I am going to join you with this project. I plan to search through my patterns the next few days. I think I might do a skirt or dress.

Barb · Posted: Tue Jul 01, 2008 9:27 pm Post subject:

Nata, you are absolutely right about the stamp. This is the way our supplier describes the process.

Nata · Joined: 14 Apr 2007 Posts: 74

I am impressed that fabric doesn't fall apart after a couple of washings after being diyed so many times. DD's bluse stood up to 3 seasons of weekly wear.

zigzagger · Joined: 07 Jun 2007 Posts: 54 Location: Massachusetts

Hi Everyone,

I'll be joining the batik sew-along. I chose SB's Jewels of the Sea fabric to make a summery skirt using Butterick pattern 4686 (http://www.butterick.com/item/B4686.htm), probably view C. I plan to put together a muslin to test the pattern today, and maybe get it cut out. Is anyone else planning on making a skirt?

Carole · Posted: Sat Jul 05, 2008 10:42 am Post subject:

I'm in for the sew along - I love batik fabrics. Thank you for the tutorial Nata, the info is great.

I'm thinking about what to sew. As I was getting dressed this morning I spent some time looking over my closet and clothes. It struck me that almost everything in my closet is 'straight'. I don't have many frills or fancy things. I also tend to favor natural fibers (!) and colors in the brown, green, blue, purple and black families.

I think I'll use a batik called Serenity, that I bought last March. I had intended to make something out of it for a Caribbean vacation, but never got around to the sewing before our trip. It's a lovely piece with lots of my colors - a dark blue background with light blue and greeny abstract shapes. Overall it's pretty busy. I'm thinking of a long sleeved classic shirt. Since the fabric is dark, I think I could wear a long sleeved shirt, even out of a tropical print, from March through November. Frankly, I could probably even wear it this summer in New England. It just hasn't really warmed up here yet.

I was looking at another, trendier top pattern from a Butterick pattern, but the local chain store didn't have it in stock the other day and wouldn't special order it. I may have to mail-order it. But that shirt had short sleeves. So now I have to decide. It was a cute pattern, though.

Nata · Joined: 14 Apr 2007 Posts: 74

Rachel, I love the fabric you chose. It’s such a pretty combination of colors. Do you think rayon would work for this skirt? My concern is fitted top section of this skirt. You would need to interface it pretty heavily in order for the skirt to keep its shape at the waist. But then again, I never though of using rayon batik for a skirt. I might be wrong on this one.

I have decided to use my Bramble batik. I absolutely love the color. Picking a pattern is next step. Pretty much every blouse pattern from Hot Patterns would be a good choice: [url] http://www.hotpatternsstore.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=HP&Category_Code=bl[/url]

I am going to try Butterik 4985. It looks harmless enough Smile

I don't feel like sewing anything too complicated.Here is the link: http://www.butterick.com/item/B4985.htm

Next step is preshrinking. Do you guys preshrink your rayon batiks? I do, even though most of the shrinkage was worked out of it during dyeing. For rayon, I soak the fabric in warm water and either give it a couple of whirls in the washer, or hand rinse it. I put it through a spin and dry completely in the dryer. I don’t usually use dryer on finished garments, but I want to be able to in case I absolutely have to.[/url]

Lois · Posted: Mon Jul 07, 2008 9:59 am Post subject:

Hi Everyone! Rachel I like that fabric and I think it would work for a skirt. Natalia makes a good point about the waistline or yoke. Which view are you planning? If you do the yoke I'd do an underlining in a firm woven fabric like cotton batik, china silk or organza to add some extra firmness without having an interfacing effect. Or just stabilize the waistline with stay tape. Here's a tip from a sewing friend of mine, about how she structures the waistlines of skirts.

She puts zippers in Center Back (creates a seam if the pattern doesn't include one) and attaches the facings before sewing side seams. Then she can make adjustments for fit easily by taking in side seams (especially if the skirt stretches out after wearing). She also inserts some clear elastic in the waistline seam to add a slight tension which prevents most waistline stretching. So Rachel I think your skirt would work in the Batik and I love skirts in Batik.

I have chosen to use Dancing Dots
http://store.sawyerbrook.com/Templates/frmTemplateP.asp?CatalogID=4605&Zoom=Yes&SubFolderId=161
decided to make a skirt too. I'm thinking of using New Look 6771 View E which is the one shown in White here.
http://images.patternreview.com/sewing/patterns/newlook/6177/6177.jpg
A friend has made this skirt several times and says it fits great because of the bias sections, but isn't too clingy to the body.

To make an outfit, I'm going to make Butterick 4188 View A blouse in the same Batik. I hope I like them together - it'll be like wearing a dress.
http://www.butterick.com/item/B4188.htm?search=4188&page=1
(show here on the top in navy and white)
I think I'll wear this blouse a lot, both with the skirt and also with jeans. We have a lot of hot weather out here in Calif so I think this Rayon outfit will be comfortable for many months ahead.

Nata - Your blouse pattern is really cute and will look great in your Bramble. Yes - I do pre-wash my rayons prior to cutting even though they have been through many hot washes as you explained.

I've ordered my fabric and will begin to get my pattern ready.

Carole · Posted: Wed Jul 09, 2008 8:21 am Post subject:

This is so much fun! I like to look up everyone's patterns and since I walk past the fabrics all the time at work, I can really imagine them made up. I had a good time yesterday, Lois, imagining your two piece dress in the Dancing Dots.

Well I'm going to get to use that cute Butterick pattern that was unavailable at my local chain store. Nata kindly offered to check and see if her nearby store carried it and it did. So she bought it and popped it in the mail to me. Thank you Nata for thinking of me and squeezing me into a busy 'mom' day in the summer. I really appreciate your thoughtfulness!

My pattern is Butterick 4549. I have a shirt similar to it in silk georgette from Anne Taylor that I bought a couple of years ago. I love the shirt, so I really liked this pattern. The blouse and pattern have somewhat of a raised waist, and a long lower body portion. The lower portion is not stick straight or gathered and has a side zipper so you can easily slide into the blouse.

I may still change my mind on which batik fabric I will use, but I know this will be a cute blouse.

Thank you Nata for making this possible!

Lois · Posted: Wed Jul 09, 2008 9:10 am Post subject:

I like your pattern Carole - very nice style. I've put that one on my wish list because I like idea of making it in silk as you mentioned. I would put a light weight invisible zipper in it.

How nice that Nata was able to find that pattern for you - great to have sewing friends in other locations!! Razz

I got my Dancing Dots fabric and love it. The design goes crosswise, selvage to selvage in rows which will turn out to be on the diagonal because of the pattern pieces in my skirt. I think I'll love that.

I just noticed on the Home Page you have Hot Coral coordinated with Dancing Dots..so I will have another coordinate. I bought Hot Coral a few weeks ago which will become a Jalie top, not sure which one yet.

Janee I'm glad you'll be joining us when you're able. That's a huge task to drape and create your daughter's wedding gown. What a wonderful project, and very special for your daughter. Good luck with your draping. I'll be making a Flower Girl's dress over the next couple of months for my niece's Sept wedding. But I'm using a commercial pattern.

Carole · Posted: Thu Jul 10, 2008 7:29 am Post subject:

My pattern arrived yesterday (thank you again, Nata!), and last night I cut out and sewed a muslin version. This is a very cute pattern. It looks a lot like my pricey Anne Taylor top and fits well. The pattern is very fitted. If you are interested in using this one I would suggest measuring a similar blouse and comparing pattern measurements. There is not much ease. But the blouse will be a winner. I'm thinking now of using a rayon lining to add a little body. The sleeve construction may make this a little challenging, but I think I'll be happier with the finished product. And I'll need to use a lightweight invisible zipper, like you mentioned Lois, because with the drapey rayon won't support anything else.

Nata · Joined: 14 Apr 2007 Posts: 74

Carole,
How is the bottom part of the shirt cut: on bias or straight grain? I noticed it’s fitted but without darts (at least on the front).

I have washed my fabric and worked on sleeves on my T-tunic. I need to topstitch facing around armholes and hem, and hand-sew puff in place. I will be cutting muslin for my rayon batik after that. I am hoping to do this today-tomorrow. That way I can fit the muslin on the weekend

Lois · Posted: Thu Jul 10, 2008 9:40 am Post subject:

Nata - Glad to hear you've found some time to sew lately - Congrats! I know you wanted to find a way to get some sewing done.

Zigzgger - what are you up to? Have you been sewing?

I've been thinking about my project, as I drive to work.....thinking through the various issues. I like to do this before a new project to come up with solutions and ideas to make it a success.

Regarding the skirt - I love the pattern but it's longer than I normally wear. So I measured a skirt I wore to work this week (as you also suggested to do.... Carole). It's about 6" shorter than my pattern so will definitely shorten it. Probably shave off 1 to 1 1/2" from the bottom of each pattern piece which I hope doesn't spoil the design. And I think I'll leave the side seams open at the hem to about knee length and see how I like that.

The blouse.....I was also thinking about doing some type of inner lining or support. I think I'll use China Silk, pre-washed so it's soft. I think I'll use it as an underlining, just sandwiching the Batik and China Silk together and treat as one. I could cut the China Silk on the Bias to be sure it's very flexible but I don't think it'll be necessary - I'll decide after pre-washing it.
I should have ordered Best Match buttons when I bought my fabric. I need (7) 1/2" buttons - any suggestions from the SB ladies? Please let me know your recommendations.

I'll try to get my fabric washed tonight. When I wash mine I'm going to throw in a cup of white vinegar to keep the colors stable just in case...maybe this isn't necessary after all the washing during the manufacturing process. Anyone else do this? Do you think it's unnecessary?