Rayon Batik Sew Along

Carole · Posted: Thu Jul 24, 2008 8:49 pm Post subject:

I cut out my blouse last weekend. Lois, I really liked your idea about cutting the sleeve out double, with the hemline on a fold! I don't think it will work on this sleeve, though, because there is a slight curve at the edges of the hemline. I was all set up to trace out that double when I noticed the curve! That tiny curve is probably one of the nice parts of the blouse I think. It adds just a little shape. Today at SB I picked up a dark eggplant lining. Now I need to get that washed and cut out too. Slowly, this is coming together.

Nata · Joined: 14 Apr 2007 Posts: 86

Carole,
Glad to hear you are moving along. I think you are right about the curved sleeve hem being a nice part of the pattern. I am not a big fan of patterns with straight lines. Our bodies are anything but straight lines. It seems logical that patterns should have curves as well. Did you decide to line the sleeves after all? If so, which way are you going to do it?

I have made some progress on my promise to fit the muslin. I put together the shell. I also did the gathers on the sleeve. I need to attach the cuff, set in the sleeve, and attach the collar band. Considering that we went blueberrying 2 days of the week, and my garden went ballistic on us (I picked enough green stuff yesterday to stuff bottom shelf of the fridge chock full), I think I did well to get any stitching done. Anyway, DH and kids are gone for a day trip today. I have to pack because we are leaving for a few days vacation on Sunday. After that I should have some time left to sew.

On unrelated note, DD drew about 10 outfits she wants for Fall wardrobe. She is very particular in styles, patterns and color combinations. I am starting to feel the heat between the garden, sewing deadlines, and some studying I am doing in my spare time Smile

I work best under deadlines.

Nata · Joined: 14 Apr 2007 Posts: 86

I have finished my muslin last night. I don’t have pictures, sorry. It was about midnight when I was ready to try it on and I didn’t want to spend time taking pictures.

It doesn’t fit, not even close. Shoulders fit perfectly all through the upper chest. The top is too tight starting at the bust and all the way down. I couldn’t even pin it closed. It fit’s close when I bring front edges together. This means that front center line needs to be moved to the cut edge, which includes seam allowance and built in button placket. The distance from original center line to the edge is about 1.25”.

Here is what I think I need to do. When I pinched front halves together I added 2.5” circumference. It was very close fitting. I would add another 1” for wear ease. That makes it 3.5” total. When I pinched the top closed it pulled side seams forward, meaning that back is as tight as the front. I would need to distribute additional 3.5” evenly around. I will slash and spread every front and back panel, making it total 8 spreads of 3.5/8” each. I think I’ll make it ½” each to make my life easier.

After I am done with that, I will need to redraw shoulders and armcye and get rid of added shoulder length. I will also need to raise neckline by about an inch as it seems a little low cut.

I could start with larger size and do it all over again. But I feel that I have a reference point using pattern I already altered. I am not going to make second muslin. I am going to take a chance and hope I didn’t forget anything. I will try adjusting the pattern tonight. We are off for a day trip on Saturday. I should be able to cut out my top on Sunday night.

Carole · Posted: Fri Aug 01, 2008 8:34 am Post subject:

I'm making a little progress on my top. I've got it interfaced and marked the darts and dots with thread tacks. I've got the interfacing fused and the machine threaded. I picked up the lining and got it prewashed. Somehow all that feels like a lot of work! It's been hot in my sewing room making it a little uncomfortable to be there. I'm really trying to do some sewing everyday. Those little steps really help me over slow times!

Carole · Posted: Mon Aug 04, 2008 7:20 am Post subject:

More progress. This seems like such a simple project - but it is slow going. Yesterday I worked on darts, shoulders, button loops and the facing. I've decided not to line the blouse. The fabric has enough body to support the shape and I don't want to complicate things. I started thinking about attaching the lining to the invisible zipper and that's when I decided not to line it. Maybe I'll move along more quickly now.

Nata · Joined: 14 Apr 2007 Posts: 86

Carole, I think it’ll be fine unlined. I don’t like the process of lining. I know it and it’s not all that complicated. I just don’t like it and there isn’t a reasonable explanation for it.

I made some progress as well, although not as much as I hoped. I re-altered the pattern. I didn’t cut out, however. Hopefully tonight.

Carole · Posted: Mon Aug 04, 2008 3:44 pm Post subject:

I'm glad I'm not lining this. I don't know why I ever thought I needed to line a summer blouse, that was not sheer! I spent a lot of time today on my blouse. I put the sleeves in, finished edges etc. There is a lot of detail work to make this super-nice, but the shirt is fabulous! I'm using an invisible zipper on the left side, but I just discovered that the zipper I picked up at SB last week is only 10 inches and I really need a 12 inch one so that it will extend all the way to the armhole. The neck opening was really low, even with the three buttons and loops closure, so I added two more loops and buttons. That took some extra time because I didn't discover that I needed them until I had already trimmed the seam where they are inserted.

I've eliminated some of the topstitching around the loops and buttons so I don't ruin the soft effect of the rayon.

I just need to finish the armholes with bias (I might use rayon lining fabric to keep it light), sew on the buttons, add the zipper and hem! So close . . .

Nata · Joined: 14 Apr 2007 Posts: 86

Carole,
You are so close to finishing it. I am so envious.

Have you ever done button loops with rayon batik? I did spaghetti ties fir DD’s tops and didn’t have good luck. Fabric raveled from inside out and ties fell apart in a few places. It probably happened because DD’s clothes withstand a lot of abuse. Hope your loops wear well.

I have some progress to share. I cut out my tops last night. I didn’t interface it because it was getting too late. I did have 5 spare min before getting out of the door this morning. I picked the thread, threaded the machine, and stitched two side seams.

My goals for tonight: fuse the interfacing, thread the serger and finish and press completed seams.

Janee · Sawyer Brook Staff Joined: 05 Apr 2007 Posts: 76

Hey guys -

Just wanted to give you a quick update from here - I still haven't started a batik project, but had the first quick fitting with my daughter on her gown last night! I have the outside of the gown together, no lining yet - I assembled the layers of silk and organza underlining, plus the foundation layers, for the back and front separately, sewed the zipper in the back seam while it was flat, created the pleated front overlays, and basted the front and back together at sides and shoulders. Everything to make it easy to alter, if necessary. I didn't take up all the seam allowances on the basted seams that I'd left, in case I'd miscalculated - the needle will leave holes in this silk/rayon duchesse satin if I need to rip out any seams. (It's not SB fabric, so I won't post any photos. But the lining, foundation fabric and zipper came from SB, at least!) Erin is thrilled with the gown, it needs to be taken in almost exactly what I'd planned, and we are both so pleased. Just wanted you all to know!

Nata · Joined: 14 Apr 2007 Posts: 86

Janee, I am so happy the gown fits well. That's half of the battle. Your daughter is very fortunate to have hew wedding gown made by loving hands.

I have to confess that I didn't make any progress on my shirt since the last post. My car was totaled in an accident (I was driving). Other driver of very mature age panicked and decided to pass me on the left while I was making a left turn into my driveway Evil or Very Mad

He then proceeded to rip up my lawn, scratch the driveway, tear out the hedge that I was trying to grow for 3 years, and finally stopped himself by wrapping his truck around a mature tree in out yard. None of us got seriously hurt, but both cars are a total loss. We spent remainder of our week car shopping and cleaning up the mess. we still haven't found a car we like.

DH and I can play car salesman games just as well as they do, but neither of us enjoy it. Yesterday dealership dragged it out for 3 hours (after we told them time and time again that we aren't interested in a minivan, a sports car, etc). To get out of it, we loaded both kids with sugar-loaded doughnuts (which we brough with us) and let them run wild testing "demo floor" cars. They finally coughed up an appropriate car and cut the price in half. Too bad we weren't crazy about the car, and need to shop some more.

I am hoping to be able to get back into sewing groove in a couple of days.

Carole · Posted: Mon Aug 11, 2008 5:16 pm Post subject:

Slow progress on my blouse. Today I worked on binding the armholes with bias strips of rayon lining. That took a lot of time, due to the hand basting I did to make the final stitching go smoothly. The directions call for packaged bias tape, but the rayon is so much nicer. Then I went to sew in the invisible zipper. Once I sewed the wrong side, then I had the zipper stop too low, only by a fraction of an inch, but still too low even though there will be a hook and eye at the top. So I'm calling it a day and will pick it up again tomorrow!

Lois · Posted: Tue Aug 12, 2008 12:26 am Post subject:

Hi Carole - I like Rayon bias strips too. The colors are endless when you use Bemberg as bias strips.

And hello to everyone else.....I've been missing from the conversation - sorry about that and I have not worked on my Batik. Life got in the way keeping me busy....followed by some projects I need to sew which have been on my schedule for quite some time. They are labors of LOVE! The project which has center stage right now ....is a Flower Girl Dress for my niece's wedding. I made a test muslin using poly satin and that came out great. It fit the Flower Girl very well, considering I had never met her. She lived 90 miles from me so I had my niece take measurements and send me photos of the little girl which turned out to be adequate for the trial run. Now I am making the real garment which I'd like to have assembled by the 16th. It's cut, and I've stitched the bodice and added the lining. Next will be attaching the full skirt, and zipper. After the 16th I hope the garment will be done, ready to add hand sewn lace and beading to the bodice. After that is complete I also have some small gifts to make for the Bridal shower. I'm an having fun with these projects, but also looking forward to getting back to sewing for myself.

I'm sorry to be lagging behind you all in the Batik project, and I am reading everyone's progress. I hope to see some pics soon.

Nata - I'm so sorry to hear about your car accident! Sounds terrible and I'm so glad no one was hurt. Good luck with your car shopping....

Lois

Carole · Posted: Tue Aug 12, 2008 6:51 pm Post subject:

If there is an award given out for how many times one can insert an invisible zipper wrong, I should nominated! I think I inserted the silly thing four or five times before I was happy. The zipper is inserted across a horizontal seam and it took me a couple of times to line that up satisfactorily.

But, my blouse looks awesome! I sewed on the buttons and finished sewing down the Bemberg strips that bind the armholes. All that is left is the hem and a hook and eye at the top of the zipper.

The fabric I'm using is called Purple Muddle, and we had it in stock last fall. I'm using a button called Skippy, in an Eggplant color.

Lois · Posted: Wed Aug 13, 2008 4:07 am Post subject:

Carole - Congrats on the zipper!!! I know the issue you struggled with and I have the same requirement of myself....to make that seam be perfectly aligned when the zipper is zipped! I'm happy to hear the blouse is moving along.

Lois

Nata · Joined: 14 Apr 2007 Posts: 86

Carole, glad you got that zipper in  If this helps, I sew one side in, then zip it closed and mark a chalk line on the un-attached zipper tape at the point of horizontal seam. I then baste second zipper tape to the blouse at the chalk mark for about an inch section. And then zip again to make sure nothing shifted, before putting it through the machine.

Lois, good luck with the dress. It sounds you’ll be busy if you need it by the 16th. It’ll be a very lovely dress, with hand sewn lace not less. I would love if you shared some pictures. Hope you finish it soon and have energy to work with your rayon batik.

I have set up the serger, stitched all the panel seams on lower bodice, finished and pressed SA. I am happy with my progress. Not enough for the pictures yet. Poor DD is walking circles around me. I confess: I purchased a few items for her for back to school. Most need alterations. Nothing complicated, but takes time. I am not touching any other project until I am done with my rayon blouse.

We are still car shopping and bargaining with insurance company. We received 15 calls about cars yesterday. I am shamed into hiring a landscaper to fix our yard damage. I know I can do it by myself just as good, but I don’t think I’ll have time. And I received another request from Immigration for ever increasing mountain of documents for my moms’ green card. When it rains it pours.

My goal for tonight: I need to do the interfacing, which I forgot all about. I would also like to put together top part of the bodice.