Rayon Batik Sew Along

Nata · Joined: 14 Apr 2007 Posts: 86

I don't know if vinegar will help to retain colors, but it wouldn't hurt. What do you use for detergent?

I use Melaleuca and it's fairly gentle. I also don't use dryer (except for preshrinking) which helps a lot to minimize fading. I know that I get my clothes faded much faster when I use Tide, which contains blasted glass particles.

Lois · Posted: Fri Jul 11, 2008 9:20 am Post subject:

For my rayons and silks I use Ivory Snow liquid detergent which is very gentle. And I also use the dryer when preshrinking fabric.

I didn't know about Tide having blasted glass particles!

Carole · Posted: Fri Jul 11, 2008 11:36 am Post subject:

I'm getting ready to cut out my top. The sleeves are a little funny. They fit in the armhole, but only partway. The underarm fits like a sleeveless top. There is a bias strip to finish the inner seam. Lois, I noticed one of the views of your top has the same type of sleeve. Since I'm thinking of lining mine, I have a couple of questions for any sewer: Would you line this partial sleeve, if the rest of the top is lined? On my Anne Taylor top, the sleeves are not lined, but that is because the outer fabric is lovely, soft and sheer and kind of flap around. But the batik is not so sheer or floaty. If you would line the sleeves, how would you deal with the hem on them? I'm thinking of sandwiching the lining and outer fabric as you suggested Lois, but I'm not sure what to do about the hem. I could always just sew right sides together at the hem line and then flip them right sides out and proceed as if the lining and fabric were one piece, with the hem already conveniently in place.

I'm shocked to learn that Tide has glass particles in it. I can't use it anyway because it is too harsh for my skin and I have an allergic reaction when I wear clothes washed in it.

zigzagger · Joined: 07 Jun 2007 Posts: 54 Location: Massachusetts

I haven't gotten around to working on my skirt yet.... I plan to make up a muslin in the next week or so to make sure I get the length and the fit right.

I don't think I'm going to bother with interfacing or anything (though thanks everyone for your ideas!)..... I just want a swishy summery skirt, and stiffening the yoke seems to counter that. I'm considering putting a bit of elastic in the top, just so it doesn't stretch out..... we'll see.

Has anyone started sewing yet?

Janee · Sawyer Brook Staff Joined: 05 Apr 2007 Posts: 76

Carole -

On your sleeves, if you really feel they need to be lined, I'd line them to the edge: sew the lining to the sleeve at the hem edge, right sides together. Trim and grade the seam, clip if necessary, press the allowances toward the lining and understitch. Then press the lining to the wrong side, baste the sleeve cap edges together, and set in the sleeve.

Janee · Sawyer Brook Staff Joined: 05 Apr 2007 Posts: 76

Oops! That's what I get for only reading part of your post, Carole! You went on to say exactly what I was telling you to do! So sorry.

Lois · Posted: Fri Jul 11, 2008 4:42 pm Post subject:

Carole - interesting problem.....but after thinking about it, here's how I'd do it. I'd make the sleeves from 2 layers of the batik and cut the hemline on the fold so you don't have to deal with hemming it at all. You could make a new pattern piece by cutting your pattern piece on the fold of pattern paper. Open up new sleeve pattern, and cut out of fabric. Then fold sleeve on hemline and treat the 2 raw edges as one when inserting into armscye.

Another interesting way to treat the bottom half of the armhole would be to sew the lining to the fashion fabric right side together, sewing the area which won't have the sleeve. Clip into the seam allowance where the seam ends so you can then turn the lining inside after grading the seam. This way, the bottom part of the armhole would be finished without a bias strip. Does this make sense?

I'd treat the lining as an underling from that point on, serging seams to clean finish. The only tricky part will be where the sleeve ends and abuts the lined part. But I think a clip will allow you to make the transition.

This might be too complicated....I just like to engineer things and think of new ways to handle the issues.

Nata · Joined: 14 Apr 2007 Posts: 86

I wouldn't line the sleeves at all. I think china silk is so light that it wouldn't be even noticeable is sleeves are unlined.

But if I wanted to, I'd do it similar to the way Lois suggested. I would, however skip clipping. How about sewing in the sleeve in a sandwich between outer shell and silk. Same way like a collar would be sandwiched in. Once you sew blouse and underlining together all around the armhole, turn interlining to the inside, understitch and then treat it as true underlining (two layers treated as one. I guess you would have to have shoulder seams sewn separately on the rayon and the underlining. But you could hand catch them together if you have to.

I am pretty tired at the moment though. Any advice from me should be taken with a grain of scepticism. Smile

Nata · Joined: 14 Apr 2007 Posts: 86

Rachel, I am very curious to see how your skirt turns out.

Thank you Lois, I am glad to have some sewing done. I basted the hems and armholes facings and tried my tunic on. It looks like a winner. I just need to topstich the facings and coverstitch the hem. Really no more than half an hour job. I am just glad to be to the point where I see that I will be able to wear it. I've done a fair amount of modifications and alterations to it. I raised the neckline (on paper), and then took another 1.5in in in the shoulder seams, which caused my armholes to be slightly tight, and sleeve caps about 3in too long. Rolling Eyes

Sleeves were too wide across the arm, and the whole thing was good 10" too long. It looked so hideous in the process that I almost gave up on it. I'll post a picture when finished.

Meanwhile, I didn't touch the pattern for my top yet. But I am getting closer to it.

Lois · Posted: Fri Jul 11, 2008 11:04 pm Post subject:

Nata - that's very ingenious!! I like that idea. This meeting of the sewing-minds has been fun! And productive....we'll have to wait and see what Carole decides will work for her.

One more idea came to mind. I have been using Steam-A-Seam Lite lately and maybe that could be used to fuse the edges together before edge stitching in Nata's solution.....to create a secure foundation; the layers wouldn't shift.

Carole · Posted: Sat Jul 12, 2008 7:55 am Post subject:

Wow! Ask and receive! Thanks for the ideas everyone. Janee, thank you for reminding me about understitching - I wouldn't have thought about that. I'm going to stew over everyone's plans for a few days and figure out what will work.

Lois, the lower portion of the top isn't cut on the bias. I've been trying to figure out on my AT top if it is. The print and the fabric make it hard to decide.

I've been working on another batik blouse out of a purple print that I bought last year. I usually buy a lot of yardage at once and I have enough left over to make this top out of the purple too. I have to make some decisions and start sewing!

Nata · Joined: 14 Apr 2007 Posts: 86

How is everybody doing?

I had a good weekend. I have traced my pattern and made all the adjustments I usually make. I haven’t used Butterick patterns for a very long time. I needed to start somewhere, so I just made all my usual pattern adjustments. I shortened the back and front by 1 ¾” above the high bust point. I made two tucks: one through armhole, and one under. I also narrowed the sleeve cap to compensate for the tuck through the armhole. Next I narrowed shoulders and underarm by 5/8”. I slid the armcye line toward the center of the pattern by 5/8” and then re-drew the side seam. And last I made sway back adjustment. My pattern pieces look like they come out of surgery. I have a friend who uses pattern w/o any alterations. I should be so lucky.

And, I also managed to cut out the muslin. I am going to sew muslin together (hopefully tonight, or at least some of it). I am anxious to see the fit.

BrendaJo · Joined: 20 Apr 2007 Posts: 41 Location: Cape Cod

Although I am not acrively participating in the Sew-Along ( no time to sew in Summer, loads of company), I have been following along with interest. I have a batik skirt that I made two years ago, thus I am on my third summer with it. I wear it at least once a week so it gets laundered oftern. It seems to be made of iron, still looks fresh and new. The blouse I bought to wear with it is now ready for the ragbag.
Lois, very nice job on the knit top. Janee, I really was glad to see a picture of your bamboo top, I like it very much and think that was a good pattern choice. I just completed a bamboo sweater for a granddaughter. I liked working with the fiber but it was a little drapier than I would have liked.
Also Janee, I hope you keep us all posted on the wedding gown. I think we all enjoy seeing the pictures of the various projects.

Barb · Posted: Sat Jul 19, 2008 9:14 am Post subject:

Lois asked me last week to post some button suggestions for her Dancing Dots batik...I forgot! Shame on me and Lois graciously reminded me privately. She found a great best match button for the fabric herself. It is Sorbet, a two-hole transclucent 1/2" button edged asymetrically in the deep shade of rusty coral in the batik...a stunning choice. I also suggested she consider Ruffle, since the design of the pattern she has chosen might work better with a shank. Ruffle has a brushed satin face edged in a carved wavy line suggesting a floral outline, an understated feminine flavor to be sure. The color matches the ground color of the batik.

Nata · Joined: 14 Apr 2007 Posts: 86

Those are pretty buttons, Barb. I don’t have buttons yet, either.

I haven’t put together my muslin, shame on me! I am dying to see how it fits. My week was busy with picking berries for the year. We (well mostly me, myself and I because DH is working most of the time) went twice picking raspberries. Yesterday kids and I went picking blueberries. This is the first time I ever used a blueberry rake. Those things are so hard on lower back, they should be illegal. Anybody who says blueberries are too expensive should try picking them. Then again, poor Mexicans who pick them are probably paid pennies on a dollar.

Anyways, we only have blackberries left to pick this season. Smile

Putting together the muslin and working out the fit is my goal for this coming week.

Natalia