Fusible vs. Sew-in

scubagirl608 · Joined: 04 Jan 2008 Posts: 16 Location: Dallas

I am so confused by interfacing!

I've had fusibles bubble up after a short time, and basically ruined the garment. I've heard several recommendations to use knit fusible, and pre-wash it. The lady from Silouette patterns said in her workshop to fuse interfacing to any number of fabrics if you want to give it more body, etc, without addressing the bubbling. Does the bubbling come from cheap adhesive or not pre-washing, or is it a pure MAPS?

Then, last night I talked to someone who works in a high-end fabric store, and she has seen fusibles ruin very expensive suits, as people come back with the garments and say that the fabric must be defective. The professional seamstress who gives some classes at the store would die before she ever used any fusible on any garment.

Then, if you use sew-in don't the layers kind of separate and flop around--like when you have a jacket front with outside fabric, interfacing, and lining?

Barb · Posted: Sat Feb 16, 2008 10:09 am Post subject:

This is a lot to respond to so I will let others chime in too with their experiences. Generally speaking bubbling occurs for three reasons. The first would be improper fusing...i.e. not enough heat/steam/pressure in the application process. The second is the quality of the interfacing, i.e. not enough resin on the fusible side. The third reason is possible if there is a mismatch between fashion fabric and interfacing, but generally that simply results in the wrong hand where the interfacing overpowers the fashion fabric or leaves it too limp for the construction that you wish to do. The only way to know what is happening with your particular project is to TEST, TEST, TEST. I know I sound like an old school marm, but it's really the only way we learn what is happening. At SB we test all the time when we are choosing best match for our customers or when we bring in a new interfacing. It really helps in the evaluation of the product and certainly gives us greater confidence in the recommendations we make to our customers. I learned this many moons ago from my favorite sewing mentor and I know if I called her today with a question, she would ask what did your tests show?

Yes, you should pre-wash your fusibles also. The bubbling could be occuring because of discordant shrinkage of fashion fabric and interfacing. This is why so many rtw shirts will carry a dry clean only care code. They do not pre-shrink the interfacing. Simply dip the folded interfacing in warm water for about 20 minutes. then pat it dry with a towel to absorb most of the moisture. Hang it over a shower rod to air dry for at least 24 hours before using.

Finally as to sew-in interfacings...this was the way of the world before fusibles were developed in mid-20th century. Anyone trained in classic tailoring often still chooses the "old way". Sew-in can be a product manufactured for that purpose (i.e. hair canvas for coats) or something as simple as silk organza or self-fabric for lightweight silks for instance. The interfacing is cut the same size as the piece to be backed and is either hand-basted, glued or simply caught in the seams as the garment is constructed. For shaping with the interfacing such as for collars, pad stitching is used to ensure that the interfacing is one with the fabric and provides the shaping that is necessary. This is a very brief explanation. I hope others will join in with their thoughts.

Lois · Posted: Sun Feb 17, 2008 12:42 pm Post subject:

On this topic, there are as many opinions as there are sew-ers I think! Some people don't like fusibles, based on past bad experiences. I think fusibles have improved greatly. And I use them with success.

I agree with Barb - test -test-test. And test on a large swatch, at least 4" by 8". Fuse a 4" square of interfacing to one half, allow to cool and then fold the unfused section on top to examine the results through the double layer which is probably how your garment will be constructed. I mark my samples with the type of interfacing used, and keep the samples in a Ziploc bag for future reference. Over time you will learn which you like and which were too firm. I keep various interfacings on hand so I can try several types to find the one which will enhance my project.

I do not like to fuse entire yardage or entire pattern pieces. I've tried it and don't like it. However, I like to fuse interfacing facings, collars, cuffs, hems, and other areas that need stabilization such as behind pockets and buttonholes.

My tips for fusing are to use steam (if the fabric won't spot from the moisture) and pressure. I use a muslin press cloth over the interfacing, and I like to spritz water using a spray bottle. I pat this with my hand and then apply the iron. After fusing the entire piece, I change to a dry iron and apply again to dry out the piece. Then allow to cool before moving. this is a lengthly process but worth it.

In some projects I choose to use sew-in interfacing and yes it does hang inside between the layers. But it's secured within the seam allowances usually. Over time the fibers in each layer begin to adhere to each other and work as one. There are several alternative methods to insert sew-in interfacing if bulk within the seam allowance will be an issue. Those methods can be found in many books such as Sandy Betzina's book Power Sewing Step by Step, and Threads Sewing Companion book titled Easy Guide to Sewing Jackets. The author Cecelia Podolak has a great chapter about Interfacing Decisions.

Other books that cover the subject of Interfacing are:
The Zapp Method of Couture Sewing by Anna Zap
Tailoring Ladies' Jackets by Mary Ellen Flury
and my favorite for all things sewing: Reader's Digest Complete Guide to Sewing.

Be sure to test first and I think you'll gain some confidence and make choices that meet your own needs and preferences.

BrendaJo · Joined: 20 Apr 2007 Posts: 28 Location: Cape Cod

I would like to add a little to the subject of interfacing. It is possible to purchase cheap, cheap, cheap interfacing for about a dollar for three yards. Avoid it. Purchase the type of interfacing suitable for your fabric and use it following the directions exactly. I find that fusible interfacing works extremely well in most cases. It has been years since I have experienced the bubbling problem.
If I am working with very expensive fabric, making a linen, silk, or wool jacket for example, I use the sew-in type interfacing.
One additional point, if I am in a big hurry and I want to take a short cut and use fusible, I will sometimes interface the facing (as in a lapel) because if there should be a problem it won't show. Now I am waiting to hear from all those who will tell me why I should never do this.

Lois · Posted: Mon Feb 18, 2008 10:51 am Post subject:

BrendaJo - I do too! Many times I also fuse facings rather than the garment piece. I think it's a great option.
Other times when I want more support, I will fuse directly to the garment piece, such as when making a tailored garment. I like Mary Ellen Flury's technique of fusing above the bust and into the armscye/shoulder area. If fusing to the garment front or back is objectionable, and another option is to use and underlining and fuse to that.

Textured Weft has been a favorite of mine, and I'm interested in testing the new fusible GridWeft which Sawyer Brook is now carrying.

scubagirl608 · Joined: 04 Jan 2008 Posts: 16 Location: Dallas

What is weft interfacing?... as in "weft insertion" in your product description in the SB web site?

Barb · Posted: Fri Feb 22, 2008 11:41 am Post subject:

A weft insertion interfacing is knit but has an added crosswise yarn to stabilize the stretch. It offers the best of both worlds in terms of stability and flexibility. Hope this helps.
Let us know what fabric you are choosing interfacing for and maybe we can make a suggestion.