Fitting technique

scubagirl608 · Joined: 04 Jan 2008 Posts: 16 Location: Dallas

I have been researching how to adjust my patterns to get my projects to fit better. Everything I've read talks about a sloper--but no one defines it! I don't get it. What is a sloper!?

Confused

Thanks in advance!

Becky

Lois · Posted: Sun Feb 03, 2008 6:50 pm Post subject:

In my experience a sloper is a basic bodice and basic skirt. The bodice has bust and waist darts and a round neckline. The skirt is straight with front and back darts and a waistband. The objective is to alter and sew the sloper to fit you like a second skin, with no pulling, gaps or drag lines. After doing this, you will know the specific alterations required to fit your particular body, and gives you insight on alterations you need to make in your garment sewing with other patterns.

The sloper can created from a commercial pattern such as Vogue 1004 which is altered to fit you. The pattern instructions take you through the process. You would make the sloper from a gingham so that it's easy to see where the lines go off grain, or "crooked". They should remain exactly horizontal or vertical. If they don't, there is an adjustment necessary to correct that.
http://img.sewingtoday.com/cat/20000/itm_img/V1004.jpg

For instance....if your body is longer than the sloper and you had to lengthen the bodice by 3/4" for it to sit at your waist, then you know you have a long torso and will most likely add that same length to blouses, dresses and jackets.

There are many other possible alterations to accommodate your personal figure and posture. Things such as full tummy, flat rear, full bust, sloping shoulders, sway back, uneven shoulders and many more could be your standard adjustments. You learn these by creating the fitting shell (aka sloper).

Going forward, you can use the sloper if you get into Pattern Drafting. The sloper is the beginning point from which you create other designs such as a cowl neck blouse, a gored skirt, a double-breasted jacket. They all begin with the basic sloper.

Good books on the subject which I own are:
Basic Pattern Skills for Fashion Design by Zamkoff and Price Fairchild Publications, or Patternmaking for Fashion Design by Armstrong (the 'gold standard" on the subject) .

Another fabulous book about altering patterns and learning what alterations are necessary for you, plus the important part.....HOW TO DO the alterations is:
Fit for Real People by Palmer & Alto ISBN 0-935278-43-5
I highly recommend this book, because the photography gives you a clear view of many common fitting problems and how they are corrected

I hope this info is helpful for you.