embellished jackets

Jeanne · Joined: 02 Oct 2007 Posts: 7 Location: Tampa, Fl

Hi Everyone

I recently visited my home state of NY, and of course went shopping.
I drooled over the beautiful embellished jackets I saw. I have two dilemmas. The first is that I live in a hot climate, and need some ideas for lightweight piecing and surface design ( not into cutesy). My second thing is that wearable art patterns are all too boxy. Any pattern ideas for something with a little more shape?

Many thanks
Jeanne Cool

BrendaJo · Joined: 20 Apr 2007 Posts: 28 Location: Cape Cod

I know what you mean about Wearable Art garments being too boxy. I am uncomfortable wearing them b/c I always feel that I am wearing my big sister's jacket. I wish I had an answer for you. Do you subscribe to Threads? You might get some good ideas from back issues.
My daughter lives in Tampa and sometimes (in January and February) wears winter weight clothing.

Jeanne · Joined: 02 Oct 2007 Posts: 7 Location: Tampa, Fl

Hi BrendaJo

Yes, my thing is that the boxy style just isn't flattering. Also, I think it makes the garment look a little crafty. I do get threads each month--thanks for suggestion-I'll check those back issues. Smile

Barb · Posted: Sat Oct 06, 2007 10:44 am Post subject:

Hi Jeanne
I'm not sure exactly what you have in mind, but one idea that comes to my mind is embellishing the fitted detail in a more constructed garment. For instance, if you like a jacket with princess seams, incorporate a contrast corded binding in the front and/or back seam. Top-stitching in contrast colors, even variegated thread adds embellishment too. If you are looking for textural embellishments, you could incorporate them on lapels and pockets rather than the straight front of a boxy jacket. It takes a keen eye to do it right so it doesn't look clownish, but if you start with a sketch of the pattern and then sketch in your ideas, you can get a good idea of the final look. You can also play with a muslin, using fabric crayons. Don't forget buttons as an embellishment. Sometimes, just rearranging the number and spacing of buttons on a favorite jacket pattern gives it a very artsy look!

As far as fabric goes, I think linen is a wonderful canvas for embellishment. Another alternative is silk. In your climate, colors change with the seasons, but not necessarily fibers.

Jeanne · Joined: 02 Oct 2007 Posts: 7 Location: Tampa, Fl

Hi Barb

Thank you, those are great suggestions. The idea of using linen is great because I'm going for an everyday look as opposed to something dressy.
I have a Janome 10000, so the surface design you mention are certainly possible. There was a great pattern from Hot Patterns a few seasons ago, but I contacted them, and it's no longer available. Probably Vogue has something I can use.

Thanks again
Jeanne

Lois · Posted: Fri Oct 19, 2007 8:33 pm Post subject:

Jeanne - I have had your question on my mind and finally had some time to sit and reply. I also live in a warm climate. My sewing past included a lot of tailoring with wool when I lived in the Boston area. Now that I live in Southern Calif I had to made the adjustment to lighter weight fabrics. In the past I have not been an art-to-wear sewist and I took it as a challenge to play around with jackets. Here is one to give you some ideas. My jacket is not fitted as you desire. But for an idea I'm uploading a few photos as examples. I used a cotton fabric which has an interesting weave and used a contrasting batik to bind the seams and make button tabs. I sewed the side seams and sleeve seams to the right side, bound them with bias strips. I also bound the center back seams on the inside. Along the neckline I added a binding along the top edge. It was fun and might give you some ideas where you could begin your own challenge. I saw a cool jacket pattern with interesting lines in the latest Vogue catalog - #8398. It's a cropped jacket that I think could be lengthened to a standard length, and utilize all those seams with decorative stitches, bound seam allowances, or perhaps use an assortment of fabrics because of the many pattern pieces. Let me know what you think!

Lois · Posted: Fri Oct 19, 2007 8:36 pm Post subject: sleeve close up

Close up of sleeve showing exterior bound seam allowance, bound sleeve hem and buttonhole tab all from bias batik fabric strips

Lois · Posted: Fri Oct 19, 2007 8:37 pm Post subject:

Side Seams and Sleeve Seams bound with batik strips.

Jeanne · Joined: 02 Oct 2007 Posts: 7 Location: Tampa, Fl

Hi Lois

Thanks for your reply. Yes, our climates can be a challenge. I've lived here since 84, and still can't get the hot weather dressing thing down. Of course, if I were 21, tan, and 90lbs, problem solved--oh well.

I like the sleeve detail on your pattern. and the binding is a good idea.
Another difficulty is finding fabric that breathes. Cotton is nice, but so much of it is just too cute for my taste. With our climate here, and I'm sure yours as well, "mystery fiber content" can be a problem. Where has all the beautiful fabric gone? Sad

Lois · Posted: Sat Oct 20, 2007 6:05 pm Post subject:

Jeanne - Well we all do miss our local retail fabric stores for sure. But luckily we've got some fine online sources who are out there searching to bring us great fabrics. I think the designer sources have decreased because most garment production is done off shore. Therefore there's a lot of fabric which doesn't reach the states and no longer available to home sewers. I am turned off by the synthetics and lower quality fabrics so I don't buy fabric at my local chain store, or from some mail order who entice with deep discounts. If I'm going to wear it and spend my time sewing it, I go to sources who I know buy only quality fabrics. For me that limits the risk and is a wise investment of my money. I have no problem finding beautiful fabric here at Sawyer Brook where I buy a lot, and also from their Back Room collection which offers unique pieces. Personally, I like the natural fibers such as linen, cotton solids, 3 season light weight wool and lots of rayon. I find it enjoyable to wear and enjoyable to sew. I like to mold shape into the garment and press well for a good finished look.

Please keep us posted on your jacket projects. I find it inspirational to see the creativity of others. I don't find many sewing classes anymore and these sewing communities are my lifeline to keeping in touch with others with the same passion.

Nata · Joined: 14 Apr 2007 Posts: 72

Lois, beautiful jacket! I love the sleeve detal ad the swing silhouette.

Dixie · Posted: Wed Oct 31, 2007 7:57 pm Post subject:

This topic is very interesting to me, because I'm interested in art-to-wear, but I don't want the art to be wearing me. Smile

I've seen many "creative" garments that I would never consider wearing. Some are festooned with cutesy motifs, others are so over-the-top crafty that they don't function well as a garment. I don't want to look like a quilt on legs, nor a painting that walked off a wall. I just want to make creative garments that fit well, and enhance my looks.
Lois and Barb give very good ideas here. Your jacket is very smart, Lois. Subtle, but "different" in a good way. Nice work!
I'm looking forward to seeing what you create, Jeanne!