The Savvy Sewer Salon at Sawyer Brook

by **Barb** » Thu Jan 26, 2012 4:12 pm

We recently had a request through our Finding Closure blog for a tutorial on making buttonholes. We immediately thought of Ruth who many of you have gotten to know in the Salon. She is well versed in buttonholes from the basic to the unique and has agreed to share her techniques with us here. This is more of a demonstration than a sew along, but we invite you to stitch and share photos of your samples as we go along. Ruth is generous with her advice and we thank her for taking on this assignment.

Meet Ruth

by **Ruth** » Fri Jan 27, 2012 8:36 am

As a garment sewer I feel the "hallmark" of a professional garment is a beautiful buttonhole embellished with distinctive buttons. Buttonholes and buttons are important focal points. If my memory serves me correctly a Sawyer Brook staff person (Candy) would cut off the buttons from her ready-to-wear items and replace them with gorgeous Sawyer Brook buttons!

I thought it would be nice to share some historical pictures. How many of you remember using the buttonholer and cam ?
The cams are rounded instead of the straight bar tack. My Mom used this on her straight-stitch Singer back in the early 60's before the machines had a built-in buttohole dial. I will take the time to stitch out a few of these golden oldies. The black buttonholer fits my Singer Featherweight.

For those individuals who haven't been sewing too long I'm sure these attachments look unfamiliar. They are somewhat noisy to operate. I'm sure everyone will be curious to see how well they perform. That's what was available at the time for the home sewer.

by **Ruth** » Fri Jan 27, 2012 10:13 am

My very first sewing machine was a Christmas/graduation gift Dec. 1972. This was my trusty companion in college. There were no television stations or radio stations with reception in the mountainous areas of West Virginia so I had a lot of time to study and sew!

I made all my buttonholes with the zig-zag stitch and this foot. The Singer buttonholer was added to my collection later on. It's been so long since I have used it that I have completely forgotten how nice the buttonholes are. With the automatic buttonholer the sewing machine is set for a straight stitch and the template does the rest.

Please note... I didn't use any stabilizer or silk organza. Back then I would have used silk organza or interfacing inbetween the layers of fabric. We didn't have anything like water soluble or heat soluble stabilizers. Wax paper or newpaper was often used as a stabilizer because the paper fibers pulled away nicely. Quilters used newspaper quite frequently for stabilization. My Grandmother never seem to worry about ink. It was used on the wrong side of the fabric and wasn't there long enough to rub off.

by **Ruth** » Sat Jan 28, 2012 6:49 pm

While I am entertaining myself playing memory lane with all my old toys I came across more accessories. I found the buttonhole foot for my old Singer 500A. Needless to say the right feet will make a difference. What also made a nice difference was my choice of thread. Back in the 60's and 70's there just wasn't a variety of thread. Coat's and Clark Dual Duty was perhaps one of the most popular cotton core/polyester blend threads available. Yes, I still have a few spools of that thread ! We used that thread on the Singer Touch n Sew machines in highschool and college. Many of the earlier machines sewed beautifully with cotton threads. The tension was just more compatible. Stop and think about the age of the equipment. Manufacturers today spend a great deal of time factoring in tension and thread choices. My new Bernina 830 is very sensitive to thread choices. All those built in sensors are majorly sensitive to thread changes. Monofilament thread is particularly challenging because the sensor doesn't always see it! Sometimes you have to combine a regular thread with it for the sensor to recognize that there is actually thread in the machine.

Remember....everytime you go to make buttonholes it is extremely important to remember that no two machines are exactly alike. Machines have personalities and preferences. You absolutely must test all the variables of needles, thread and fabric before you stitch on your garment! Test ! Test! Test !

P.S. Never underestimate the performance of your old toys . New isn't necessarily better ! Blend the best of both worlds.

by **Ruth** » Sun Jan 29, 2012 5:03 pm

Well, today I went in my closet to photograph some of my Sawyer Brook garments. Talk about taking a trip down memory lane; I was able to identify which machine I used to sew every buttonhole. Only a garment sewer takes such pride and pleasure in the process! These samples show different fibers and different sewing machines. They were all sewn on straight grain with super light interfacing. The fabrics are fairly lightweight with fairly smooth textures.

In future postings I will take the time to discuss the pros and cons of the various buttonhole accessories and feet. Each manufacturer has a different buttonhole approach. Every single piece of fabric is going to respond differently.

by **Ruth** » Mon Jan 30, 2012 2:59 pm

BUTTONHOLE FEET ACCESSORIES:

The first buttonhole foot is the most common for most machines; it has two grooves to accomodate the beads of thread.
The grooves help to keep both bead lines parallel. Without the grooves the two lines may spread apart.

The second picture is a foot that 'walks' across the fabric surface as it stitches the bead. Some heavier textures or slubs may cause the wheel to proceed inconsistently. This foot works best on consistent textures.
Heat soluble stabilizers can be added above or below to modify the texture.

The last buttonhole foot clamps down on the fabric. This particular foot in most instances responds the most favorably to irregular textures.

by **Ruth** » Mon Jan 30, 2012 3:14 pm

STABILIZERS:

Buttonholes are normally placed in areas that are interfaced; front facings, cuffs, plackets, waistbands.

Interfacings have grain lines just like fashion fabric. Most interfacings will stretch in one direction or more. It is important to be aware of the grain direction. Normally the interfacing grain follows the same grain as the fabric. To stabilize the buttonhole area it is MORE BENEFICIAL to have the grain in an opposing direction. Quite often I can insert a small piece of silk organza between the fabric layers just in the buttonhole area. The organza is very stabile and sheer.

On this red Jubilee silk I added a piece of light weight heat soluble stabilizer BELOW the buttonhole to help stabilize the bar tack area. On very sheer silks the bar tack area tends to pucker. The heat soluble stabilizer will tear away easily. It is designed to melt away with the iron but it's rarely necessary.

WARNING: DO NOT CLIP THE thread tails; I use a hand needle to thread the tail between the layers to keep the beads from unthreading on fine silk fabrics. If you cut off the tail and dot it with 'Fray Check' the small dot of liquid will permanently spot the silk. The drop will be hard and crusty. (Save that technique for textured fabrics that don't spot! )

by **Ruth** » Tue Jan 31, 2012 3:02 pm

TWEAKING THE DEFAULT SETTINGS: :lol:

Buttonholes on fabrics like the red silk jacquard or a delicate silk chiffon require a few adjustments to get the right density. The buttonhole beads might be too rigid for the fabric. Time to tweak those settings until you get a more flexible buttonhole more compatible with the weight of the fabric.

On the red silk jacquard I used the silk organza as my stabilizer. I also added the heat soluble stabilizer beneath the buttonhole to prevent a tunnel pucker in the bar tack. I chose the 'CLAMP DOWN' style buttonhole accessory because the fabric is SLIPPERY.

Buttonhole #1 is stitched with a normal default setting. The row of beads is too rigid in my opinion. I want the buttonhole to be a little more flexible. In # 3 stitch length is increased from .75 to 1.0.

Buttonhole #2 is a unique technique. If you have a machine with a 'twin-needle' function and you activate the twin needle function it will produce a NARROWER row of beads. The twin needle function tells the machine that a zig-zag stitch can't swing too wide or the needle will hit the throat plate opening. While you only have a single needle for a buttonhole it prevents the machine from swinging over the extra width. The result is a buttonhole with narrower beads.

The IVORY SILK CHIFFON is extremely sheer. Interfacing materials simply can't be used because they will show through.
There are two options: self fabric or silk organza. Exposed buttonholes on this beautiful embroidered fabric detract from the beauty of the fabric. I would suggest buttonholes beneath a placket if you absolutely have to have buttonholes. Use the silk organza and heat soluble stabilizer. Lengthen the bead to avoid a hard, rigid bead line.

by **Ruth** » Tue Jan 31, 2012 5:14 pm

Right and Wrong:

I just finished reading my emails. One of the magazine advertisements featured a sewing article. I think they need to rephrase the title of the article. The title incorporated the words about sewing something the "RIGHT WAY ". There is no such thing about doing something ONLY ONE WAY ! What works for one person may not be successful for someone else. It's important to describe the pros and cons of each method and see what works best for you. If you are able to get excellent results then it can't be wrong. It's up to each individual to consider the different techniques and see what they are comfortable with. That's my 2 cents !

by **Ruth** » Thu Feb 02, 2012 2:48 pm

Backtracking....
My curiosity got the better of me this morning. Probably the only reason I own a 1937 Featherweight is because my Mom gave it to me about 15 years ago; I used it when we travelled. I could bring it on a plane or in the car to sew whenever there was 'down time'. The size, weight and stitch quality is phenominal. You don't have to be a quilter to appreciate the portability. I also used it during the hurricane. I hooked up the power cord into my car. The Featherweight draws very little power and I knew I wasn't about to damage any circuit boards. I never used the buttonholer on the featherweight because I had other more current machines that didn't require set-up. Well, it was amazing! The keyhole buttonhole was as good as my husbands suit buttonholes! I tried it on two layers of wool melton and was pleasantly surprised. It's always great to have a back-up !
P.S. (I wonder if it will work with a treadle ? )

by **Dixie** » Thu Feb 09, 2012 5:00 pm

I've just caught up on reading this sew-along, and have to say you're doing a terrific job, Ruth. Your photos of old attachments and machines are very interesting, and I like seeing the buttonholes they sew. I wouldn't have thought of using silk organza as a stabilizer, so that's a very helpful hint.
For those who aren't familiar with different buttonhole styles, can you tell us which ones are appropriate for which fabrics and garments? Like, when is it best to use a keyhole buttonhole? Also, I'm challenged by bound buttonholes. Can you offer some tips and tricks with them? I'd love to see some you've made.
I recently made buttonholes in a ponte knit cardigan. The placket was lightly interfaced, and I used a tear-away stablizer underneath. I thought the holes looked good at first, but with wear, they're stretching out. Should I have corded them, or used some other technique? Can you show us some buttonholes on double knit?
Thanks for all of your work on this. I'm looking forward to learning more!

by **Ruth** » Fri Feb 10, 2012 1:56 pm

Key Hole Buttonholes:
Most mens suits and many coats use key hole buttonholes. The circular opening at the key hole accomodates the round plastic or metal shank beneath the button to keep the button hole from spreading apart. The two rows of buttonhole beads are supposed to appear closed when worn. It is usually necessary to sew a small shank below a button unless the fabric is very sheer. When I stitch a button on a garment I use a thin nail, skewer or toothpick to sew over. Some machines have buttonhole shank adaptors to create a shank. The thicker the fabric, the longer the shank needs to be to accomodate the thickness of the fabric. Keyhole buttonholes are usually corded for extra strength. Heavier weight cotton thread or silk buttonhole twist can be used. You might also see this keyhole buttonhole on the waistband of denim jeans when they use a metal grommet style button.
On womens' suits you might find corded keyhole buttonhole to look somewhat bulky. It's very important to match the thread color really well. If the buttonhole stands out in contrast with the fabric weight and color it might be distracting to the eye. I want my buttonhole to blend and my button to be the focal point. Test it out. It comes down to personal preference.

Stabilizers:
All buttonholes need to be stabilized. The threads need to lock into something besides the fabric or they will eventually stretch out and look warped. I have also seen buttonholes separate from the fabric entirely because the buttonhole didn't have enough yarns to grasp. If the buttonhole gets used regularly it can't be avoided. Many bias interfacings will stretch out in every direction. Some interfacings may stretch in one direction. Make sure the strongest grain line runs parallel to the bead lines. Silk organza can be used in either direction with success. It's very taut and sheer. Works on every fabric to the best of my knowledge. If my facings are already fused with any lightweight fusible I still will insert a strip of organza in the buttonhole area and trim out the excess.

Bound Buttonholes: These are definitely tailored. I personally love the 'couture' look of a bound buttonhole. Admittedly they do take time and practice. There are many, many bound buttonhole methods; I've tried them all !
If you happen to own one of the Dritz bound buttonhole maker accessories from the 70's and 80's they most definitely work nicely on medium to light weight fabrics. I'm not sure if I used the Dritz on these two garments. I made them 10 years ago !

by **Ruth** » Sat Feb 11, 2012 3:59 pm

Steps using the Dritz buttonholer:
This particular accessory gives consistent width on both sides of the welt lips. Controlling consistent width on the welt lips is perhaps one of the MOST challenging steps when constructing a Bound buttonhole. This little tool makes that step much easier. Welt lips on leather jackets are sometimes slightly wider. Wide lips on tailored garments might look somewhat bulky or disproportional.

Step #1: The area where all buttonholes will be constructed should already have interfacing. (Most likely fusible)
Step #2: Cut a 2 1/2 inch square for the welt lips. Fuse a light weight interfacing on the square.
Step #3: Machine baste contrasting color thread . Parallel lines 1 1/4 inch apart. Do the same on welt patch.
Step #4: Insert square into Dritz accessory. Place on fabric. Line up basting lines.
Step #5: Straight stitch 'in the ditch' next to guide bar using 1.5 stitch length. You can also use a 1.0 stitch length in the beginning and end but NO BACKSTITCHING ! The extra stitches or knots will interfere with the pointed corners.
Step #6: On wrong side of garment cut between the rows of stitching with VERY FINE SCISSORS. (I use Gingher)
Step #7: Turn the welt patch through the opening to the wrong side of fabric.
Step #8: Hand baste the welts closed to prevent shifting or twisting.
Step #9: Stitch across the 'pie shaped' wedges from underneath.

by **Ruth** » Wed Feb 15, 2012 11:29 am

Bound Buttonhole #2:

Interface the wrong side of your garment where buttonholes will be constructed. Machine baste lines with contrasting thread. The majority of bound buttonholes will measure about 1 1/4 inch opening; this is probably the most pleasing proportion to the eye. Anything much smaller will be very difficult to manipulate.

This method works well on loosely woven fabrics that are likely to rip from corners. Bulky or dense fabrics can be more manageable with this method. Contrasting lips and topstitching can create a sporty look with denim, leather, gabardines, double knits and coating.

The silk organza provides excellent stability to loosely woven or stretchy fabrics. Silk organza takes a crisp flat press. It is easy to see through while you are stitching the rectangle openings. Polyester organza is NOT a substitute; it wont press. I will use contrasting threads and fabrics for greater visibility.

Place the silk organza over the RIGHT side of the fabric. You can easily see your basting lines. Line up the presser foot next to the basting line for a perfect 1/4 inch. Use a 1.0 stitch length and a size 8 or 10 needle. Begin stitching in the middle of the rectangle; not at a corner.

Topstitching the buttonhole opening.
Use can use topstitching thread around the buttonhole opening if you desire decorative topstitching. Remember to change your fine needle to a top-stitching needle so you wont have any skipped stitches. Here I chose to camoflague my stitches by selecting a matching thread and by using a 2.5 to 3.0 stitch length. The longer stitch length matches the fabric weave better than the 1.0 stitches resulting with better camoflague.
(NOTE: Instead of topstitching this particular buttonhole to attach the lips the long side edges can be secured into position by stitching from underneath, however, this is much more challenging.)
Use a hand sewing needle to hide the thread tails. NEVER CUT THE THREADS or they could come out ! It's also possible to use monofilament nylon if your fabric will be pressed at lower temperatures.

by **Ruth** » Sat Feb 18, 2012 9:29 am

Any more Bound Buttonholes?

I know we have a lot a curious sewing lurkers who love to read and learn from our Sew Alongs. Now is a great time to voice your concerns. Would you like to see a traditional bound buttonhole with two separate strips? There are a few more methods with even greater challenges ! (The two methods I have shown thus far are probably the easiest with the most consistent results.) Is it time to move on and show some other buttonhole closures? I could even pull out the buttons we had to design and cover in college. Anyone remember Qiana Nylon and textured poly's ?

The Savvy Sewer Salon at Sawyer Brook

View Cart »

Fashion Fabrics

Buttons

Community

Swatching Service

Local Showroom

Build a Better Buttonhole

Share With Your Facebook Friends

Build a Better Buttonhole

Re: Build a Better Buttonhole

Re: Buttonholes for All

Re: Buttonholes for All

Re: Buttonholes for All

Re: Buttonholes for All

Re: Buttonholes for All

Re: Buttonholes for All

Re: Buttonholes for All

Re: Buttonholes for All

Re: Build a Better Buttonhole

Re: Build a Better Buttonhole

Re: Build a Better Buttonhole

Re: Build a Better Buttonhole

Re: Build a Better Buttonhole

Who is online

HAPPENING NOW...

Savvy Sewer Salon

Barb's Blog

Sew in Fashion

Finding Closure

Get Salon Updates!